R32 Gts4 - Restoration/rebuild

[Chris Rogers]

I would think so- they are fairly soft in that area. I have worked out that the only way to raise one is via the subframes. otherwise you risk crushing the sills. somthing that I'm NOT a fan of. (esp after paying for new ones!) (still want that ABS unit btw.)

[mico]

yer i still got the abs mate i only jak from the cross mem, or if u have a big pad on top of the trolley jak its ok on the chas. lookin good anyhoo !!

[DR 32R]

Awesome

[samos69]

Awesome work, it's gonna be mint when you're done!

Can you shed some light on how you removed the rear screen - I'm going to have to do mine in the near future and I really don't want to shatter it!

[Chris Rogers]

Can you shed some light on how you removed the rear screen - I'm going to have to do mine in the near future and I really don't want to shatter it!

yep - stanley knife and a LOT of cutting. short of it is this:

remove all trim - toss in bin - its useless after you rip it off. cut around outside glass with knife and remove all the sealant as you go. do the same from the inside and give it a push at various points. it is tempered glass so it will take some force before it explodes. from there it simply falls out.

front is the same but it wil crack a lot easier.

[esky_mad]

What sort of $$ did the genuine GTR bar set you back ?

Did it include the lower lip ?

[Chris Rogers]

$578 - cover only. so every other bit that is required costs extra. fine with me as I wish to doe the entire front of it new anyway. the only scary bits of it are the duct in the passenger corner and the reo bar. both of those are silly prices.

[Chris Rogers]

ok - got a call from nissan today - front bumper cover has arrived. I'll pick that up in a few days - I have no idea where I am going to store it though as the box for it is fairly big.

other items I have tracking numbers for ex japan (the steel brace for teh strut tower to dody and the charcoal canister mount) and they should be here in a day or so.

few more images

New outer sill $300. the other one is roughly the same cost.

close up showing part number

old engine partially out. something was holding it in place at the rear. to get it out of the crossmember and off the front right shaft required partial removal of the drivers front suspension. seems to be the same idea as a 4wd subaru.

a picture says a thousand words. thats where I left it sitting when I left today. I'll drain the oil out of it and drop the sump off,crank pulley off and flywheel off and backing plate off. the rest (unless someone wants it) is going to the scrap metal yard. its of no use to me.

[Chris Rogers]

few more shots (3 different angles)

left side shot - I'm pulling EVERYTHING out of the engine bay so it can be cleaned and prepped for paint/repairs.

Front on shot. lower support (on crossmember behind lower radiator support) is bent a fraction. I'm going to take a chain hoist to this and straighten it. it looks as if its clipped a tree trunk at some point pushing it up/back. there are two PS line holders on there that are non existent as well.

Right side shot. most of the power steer lines are bent and whilst still useable I'm probably going to replace them IF they are still available.

hopefully before Christmas the car will be ready for the panel shop to take over. with most of the metal work here and waiting to go on I figure it will be close.

I still need a set of GTR guards though.

[gtr_scottie]

awesome stuff mate. I know how much work is involved in striping a engine bay never alone a hole car and than rebuild it. All the blood sweet and tears will be worth it in the long run.

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

chris, how bout these on eBay, not mine but its in brissy and cheap

[Chris Rogers]

too beaten up. look at the arches.

[Chris Rogers]

my small parts shipement form japan just arrived. in it - one NEW charcoal canister mounting bracket.

[Chris Rogers]

for those that think brake/PS lines are cheap - think again..

this is the parts list for the PSteer pipes and brake tubing. all of which appear to be available.

there are $2k of PS lines in the front area!

the brake tubing is a fair bit cheaper..

P_STEER_LINES_PN_S.pdf

[Chris Rogers]

ordered a lot of small clips today from japan. most of the line clips are hard and decayed due to age so those are underway. reasonably cheap so they got mixed in with a customer order as it was easier to source them that way.

as it sits now there is NOTHING in the engine bay. I spent most of tonight removing the brake/hicas/attessa lines from under the car. these are in perfect order and pretty much just need a clean.

spoke to the panel shop today as well. they are busy till after christmas so it looks like I spend a bit more time on it cleaning and stripping.

car is barely a rolling shell. I want to leave the suspension under it for as long as possible (or until the paint shop frees up.)

[Chris Rogers]

awesome stuff mate. I know how much work is involved in striping a engine bay never alone a hole car and than rebuild it. All the blood sweet and tears will be worth it in the long run.

its not the first car that I have reworked but it IS one of the bigger jobs I have tackled over the last 22 yrs of owning a car.

given the age of this thing (and since I spent most of tonight on my back under it) its not in too bad a shape.

I did find a packet of jap smokes though. when I was pulling the attessa bottle out of the boot I found a big pile of junk under it inc said jap smokes. all of that => bin.

[Chris Rogers]

spoke to a mate of mine in osaka yesterday, hes found me a full front end off a Vspec. whilst not cheap its in decent nick and will save me a bit of money over new items.

also picked up my other sills yesterday as well.

[Chris Rogers]

few more images:

mate of mine from osaka was in town and dropped these off. I'm still missing the front grille (he has it somewhere.) but its getting there.all of this is mocked up for the shots.

lights are the same as my existing ones but in better condition. (mine are for sale btw.) the indicators were a decent price and in much better condition that what I started with so they stay and the others go to the bin sans wiring.

other side. again its simply sitting there.

one hting that did get taken out after that was the passenger quarter glass. that came out in jsut under 10 minutes with a knife. figure it was original as there was not a lot of sealant under it and that helped a fair bit as it simply popped out. once it was cut halfway loose.

[Chris Rogers]

let the chemcial burns begin..

started paint stripping today and it will be an ongoing thing until I get it all off. I'm using a razor blade scraper, industrial paint stripper,thinners and metho to clean these. figure there is at least 5-6 weeks of work here stripping this paint off. one side (drv side) of this car I figure will have a lot more pain on it than the other.

2 passes of stripper. this is going to be a fun/tedious job...

this is 1/2 done. there are at least 8-10 coats of pain on this piece.

this image is the result of 4 passes with a rather industrial paint stripper. I still have the other areas on the boot lid to do.

[Chris Rogers]

fully stripped boot lid - 7 passes of stripper later..

that wing is next. already tried the stripper on the underside of it - no damage to it so away we go with a paintbrush over the next few nights.

sunroof area. this was a rust bubble covered with paint. figured I would see how bad the rust was and make the decision wheater or not to take a dremel to it.

decision made. a quick push on it and it pushed through.

now its a 200mm x 100mm cut/brass and fill back in job.

whilst I CAN do it I'll leave this for the body guy to fix

the white stuff is body filler from a previous attempt at fixing it.

my guess is this was done when the car came into the country about 2000 or so.