Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got a S2 c34 rb25det neo stagea just wonder if anyone has used one of these air intake pipes?? does it fit?? does it look like the pic?? just doesnt look like the hole will line up??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ALLOY-INTAKE-PIPE-4...=item255d5b278c

also this one looks like it will fit but its silicon anyone used aftermarket silicon one??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item483c7049a7

thanks..

Edited by shotpointblank

Hi mate check the diy section or search $5 5 min intake mod. I have a spare intake pipe u can use if need be

hey guys got a S2 c34 rb25det neo stagea just wonder if anyone has used one of these air intake pipes?? does it fit?? does it look like the pic?? just doesnt look like the hole will line up??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ALLOY-INTAKE-PIPE-4...=item255d5b278c

also this one looks like it will fit but its silicon anyone used aftermarket silicon one??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item483c7049a7

thanks..

Hi mate check the diy section or search $5 5 min intake mod. I have a spare intake pipe u can use if need be

yeah man ive seen that... i need to change my one anyway, air intake has a split in it or something makes whistlin sounds on boost... but yeah thanks for the opinion..

Edited by shotpointblank

As long as it is made for a R34 Neo rb25det it will fir and work

The R33 ones are different

I use to use the silicon type.

For the price I would go the alloy one now. Never use to be able to get cheap ones. The only previous ons to the cheap chinese ones use to be made by Apexi at 3 times the price

I had the alloy one. It's not a straight fit...

There is alot of screwing around to make everything fit up properly. Things like the BOV return and oil breather pipe need to be either lengthened or modded. If you still run an AFM, you will also need a smaller pod filter, otherwise it won't fit on the end.

The silicone one is a direct fit and the one to get. $5 intake mod is just as good too.

thanks for the reply guys... yeah gonna get the silicon one i think.. im still using the stock airbox (dont want a pod) but gonna get hks airfilter.. still fit sweet with the box? might just need trimming?

The alloy one will give you problems when the bov releases as the air is too close to the airflow sensor, and its on the wrong angle (air will go up the pipe.)

The silicone one looks better but the bend is pretty tight.

The alloy one will give you problems when the bov releases as the air is too close to the airflow sensor, and its on the wrong angle (air will go up the pipe.)

The silicone one looks better but the bend is pretty tight.

What sort of problem(s) would you get??

What sort of problem(s) would you get??

Reversion. I get it pretty bad at times, because i have a GCG hi flow. I have minimised it by changing back to a plumb back and using a standard intake pipe (ribs break up the reversion somewhat). It did have a silicon intake but reversion was pretty bad.

I am using the stock S1 silicone inlet pipe with the 5 min. fix. My BOV is in the hot side just out of the turbo and vents back into the stock place in the inlet. How does that fit with the "reversion" syndrome?

I am using the stock S1 silicone inlet pipe with the 5 min. fix. My BOV is in the hot side just out of the turbo and vents back into the stock place in the inlet. How does that fit with the "reversion" syndrome?

it doesn't. using the ebay alloy one with the BOV return where it is could cause false reading on the AFM, when the BOV released the sudden increase in airflow across the hotwire would cause the ecu to dump a load of fuel in the engine. if your using the stock rubber flex, even with the "$5 Intake Mod", you wont experience this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...