Really Weird Issue

[THRLLR]

hi guys,

ive connected my consult cable to my r33 series 1 and ecu talk has told me i have 2 error codes.

knock sensor - how do i fix?

a/t control.

Can any1 help? Btw my car is a manual and has always been since i got it. Converted from gts to gtst. Pretty much swappped everything over from a real turbo into my car, running gear cradles, diff, tranny, ecu etc (ecu was for a manual i think, how do i check?

[mad082]

knock sensor simply may have become unplugged, or it may need replacing.

as for the a/t one, the car you got the ecu from may have had a manual box in it but it may have been an auto originally. without a vin number to put through FAST you won't really know for sure.

[THRLLR]

knock sensor simply may have become unplugged, or it may need replacing.

as for the a/t one, the car you got the ecu from may have had a manual box in it but it may have been an auto originally. without a vin number to put through FAST you won't really know for sure.

funny u mention that because i once needed a part for my car and went to nissan and gave them my vin and they told me that the car originally mustve been an auto. So if thats the case is there any way to get rid of the code or is my ecu an auto one? How do i tell?

[mad082]

ecu is probably an auto one. as for how to tell, i don't know but there probably is a way that people more familiar with things such as nissan fast could help you with.

[THRLLR]

knock sensor simply may have become unplugged, or it may need replacing.

as for the a/t one, the car you got the ecu from may have had a manual box in it but it may have been an auto originally. without a vin number to put through FAST you won't really know for sure.

Knock Sensor unplugged?????? Now why TF did i not think of that?? LOL

Well.........checked the sensor closest to radiator that was fine.

took me forever to figure out EXACTLY where the other one was (had to use 2 bloody mirrors and a flash light. Guess what? it was bloody unplugged. It was a damn nightmare to get to. I managed to get my hand in there and wiggle it on there.

Started the car and it already sounded better, hooked up the consult cable and ecutalk s/ware and no more knock sensor errors. Drove it and i forgot what it was like to drive with all that power. It was DAMN AWESOME!

So...........a BIG THANK YOU to you MAD082, for stating the so obvious and solving my problem LOL.

For those who are curious, i had the car dyno'd in this state and it only produced 80kW at the wheels. That was with FMIC, Greddy boost controller, 3" hi flow turbo back exhaust, pod filter.

I still have the A/T Control Sensor error. Will this affect my cars performance??? ALSO HOW DO I GET RID OF THIS ERROR???

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

your probly best getting a manual computer, there pretty common

[mad082]

yeah as matt said, just get a manual ecu. if the 80kw was done with the knock sensor plugged in then i'd say that the a/t sensor issue is causing the car to stay in the map for neutral. the ecu has different maps for neutral and when it's actually in gear. if the ecu is expecting an iunput to tell it what gear it is in and it isn't getting that then it will be thinking that it is in neutral and not adding in the extra timing, etc, that it would when it is actually in gear.

glad to know the problem was easily solved and just required a bit of contortion of the wrist to plug it back in. lucky you didn't need to replace the sensor.

by the way, what boost were you running to make that power?

[Socrates]

For those who are curious, i had the car dyno'd in this state and it only produced 80kW at the wheels. That was with FMIC, Greddy boost controller, 3" hi flow turbo back exhaust, pod filter.

That is quite shit, my unopened stock carburettored L24 non turbo makes 60RWKW, something definitely is/was wrong.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

not to mention that automatic ecus are tuned for 5 pound springs in turbos??? i dont know if this would have any effect on the cars performance though...

[mad082]

nah wouldn't have too much effect as plenty of auto guys are running higher boost on the stock ecu.

i'd say it is to go with the neutral switch being permanently set to on to allow the car to start (with auto cars the ecu will only let the car start in neutral or park) and when they are converted from auto to manual they often just short this so it is permanently sending the neutral signal all the time.

actually you could probably check this with your consult cable. datascan will show you this info. you can download older versions of datascan that don't require activation from here http://home.exetel.com.au/nds/NDSI/index.p...ontent=download

[85URK]

just find a mate with a manual and swap ecu's over to check it. that will give you your answer. then u can hunt down a new manual ecu if needed.

[THRLLR]

hi guys,

ive connected my consult cable to my r33 series 1 and ecu talk has told me i have 2 error codes.

knock sensor - how do i fix?

a/t control.

Can any1 help? Btw my car is a manual and has always been since i got it. Converted from gts to gtst. Pretty much swappped everything over from a real turbo into my car, running gear cradles, diff, tranny, ecu etc (ecu was for a manual i think, how do i check?

Guys...theres been a slight misunderstanding. LOL 80rwkW with the kncok sensor UNPLUGGED! LOL

The boost i was running was "stock" cos i didnt want to boost it with it running like a bag of shyte and blow it up. So i ran it with the Greddy controller on "off" all the time.

hmmmmm.....mad082, I never thought about the neutral gear having being set to on permanently to allow it to start and what you say makes perfect sense aswell about the different mapping for an auto.

Im already getting the manual ecu from a member off here so once ive got it i hope i will have no errors so i can then properly tune my car and have it running properly once and for all.

Although i am curious mad082, how exactly do i check that the neutral signal has been shorted with datascan?? i've downloaded one of the older versions and am not familiar with its functionality. :-)

BTW thanks to all for the advice so far, without SAU i wouldve burnt my car in some paddock by now. LOL

[mad082]

when you load up datascan with the consult plug in and just go to the main gauges screen you will see a heap of boxes down the bottom of the page. they will be green and red (i think) and should also have text next to them. one of them should say neutral on. this should change to off when you put it into gear

here's a pic i just found. the neutral one is the top of the second column

[NewKleer]

can u get to those screens with older versions without purchasing?

anyway latest ecutalk software has switches in it if u cant get datascan going (bit harder to understand that datascan but the data is there)

[THRLLR]

when you load up datascan with the consult plug in and just go to the main gauges screen you will see a heap of boxes down the bottom of the page. they will be green and red (i think) and should also have text next to them. one of them should say neutral on. this should change to off when you put it into gear

here's a pic i just found. the neutral one is the top of the second column

Great! it seems the datascan i downloaded was a fake. So i dont have it. I dont suppose anyone has one of the old versions 1.4 or older available?

[mad082]

i do, pm me your email adress and i'll send it to you.