Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

so i just bought a skyline v35 from trader who advised me that i can use the

Shell Unleaded E10 fuel type.

does anybody here recommend this? the fuel cap says 'premium unleaded only'

and the shell website says 'shell Unleaded E10 has a minimum 94 octane rating'

is this ok? i don't know much about this stuff but hopefully you guys can help!

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339952-shell-unleaded-e10/
Share on other sites

No I would certainly not use it. I would only use 98 octane fuels.

On the shell website it also says:

If your vehicle manufacturer recommends a minimum 95 octane then Shell V-Power may be a more suitable fuel.

If they dont recommend it for cars that recommend 95 octane, I certainly wouldnt use it on cars that recommend 98 octane fuel.

Also, my experience using the old 100 octane shell fuel which also contained 10% ethanol was it got considerably worse fuel economy until you had it tuned for it.

No I would certainly not use it. I would only use 98 octane fuels.

On the shell website it also says:

If your vehicle manufacturer recommends a minimum 95 octane then Shell V-Power may be a more suitable fuel.

If they dont recommend it for cars that recommend 95 octane, I certainly wouldnt use it on cars that recommend 98 octane fuel.

Also, my experience using the old 100 octane shell fuel which also contained 10% ethanol was it got considerably worse fuel economy until you had it tuned for it.

well i'm currently using 95 octane cos its premium unleaded? i guess i'll keep to it..

E10 has up to 10% ethanol in it.

Unless your fuel system is designed to cope with it, dont use it. It chews away at rubber and plastic within the fuel systems.

As above.. not a good idea.

so just to clarify 95 octane is (at a minimum) the right fuel for me? lol i think i'm willingly confusing myself..

E10 has up to 10% ethanol in it.

Unless your fuel system is designed to cope with it, dont use it. It chews away at rubber and plastic within the fuel systems.

As above.. not a good idea.

Hmm I thought all those myths had been put to rest. How many people are running E85 (85% ethanol) on this and other forums without issues with factory fuel lines etc??

so just to clarify 95 octane is (at a minimum) the right fuel for me? lol i think i'm willingly confusing myself..

No I think 98 octane is at minimum the right fuel for you. I would never use any less. Japan has 100 octane fuel.

E10 has up to 10% ethanol in it.

Unless your fuel system is designed to cope with it, dont use it. It chews away at rubber and plastic within the fuel systems.

As above.. not a good idea.

Thats a myth. I've run 20% Toluene, many other additives. Not a single problem.

As for the OP, Id find a service station with BP98, Shell 98, or Caltex 98. They may cost you a few dollars more, but I bet you go more kms too.

Thats a myth. I've run 20% Toluene, many other additives. Not a single problem.

As for the OP, Id find a service station with BP98, Shell 98, or Caltex 98. They may cost you a few dollars more, but I bet you go more kms too.

For how long?

I know personally of race cars who have left ethanol fuels in their rubber fuel bladders and fuel lines for a couple of weeks between events and have chewed through standard fiel lines.

This is just my personal experience.. other people may have different experiences.

Edited by GTS4WD
Thats a myth. I've run 20% Toluene, many other additives. Not a single problem.

As for the OP, Id find a service station with BP98, Shell 98, or Caltex 98. They may cost you a few dollars more, but I bet you go more kms too.

well are there any adverse effects from pumping 95 octane fuel? cos i've been using that for a while now...and is it ok to mix 95 and 98..?

For how long?

I know personally of race cars who have left ethanol fuels in their rubber fuel bladders and fuel lines for a couple of weeks between events and have chewed through standard fiel lines.

This is just my personal experience.. other people may have different experiences.

dude, it's a myth. my car ran on E85 for about 18months straight, also didn't get driven for weeks at a time as well. Car still in perfect health.

if you're talking say a 1985 car or something like that, perhaps, but really any of our cars will be fine.

I noticed this and I asked the local Shell about it. They told me their E10 is only rated at 94 octane minimum. United E10 which I normally run in the daily is the same price (if not slightly cheaper) and is minimum 95 octane.

I noticed this and I asked the local Shell about it. They told me their E10 is only rated at 94 octane minimum. United E10 which I normally run in the daily is the same price (if not slightly cheaper) and is minimum 95 octane.

How do you find the E10, do you get worse fuel consumption? or is it tuned for it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
    • I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.
×
×
  • Create New...