Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im looking at buying a set of 34 brembos for my gtr. ive done a search but theres so much shit i cant seam to find just the simple anwsers i need.

1. will i need to change the master cyl to cope with the biger pistons??

2. the fronts are just a matter of driling out the hole in the hub to 14mm??

3. my braided brake lines will just fit straight into the brembo cails and just a matter of bleading them??

theres more,

thats just all i can think of atm

cheers Deano :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340001-r34-brembos-on-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

I'm in the process of putting 34R V Spec2 brembos on my 32R.

For them to fit you can drill the hubs out to 14mm but it would probably be better if you just get some inserts installed on the caliper so that it is the same as your hubs. I forgot the size and thread type of the 32 hubs but I have it written down somewhere at home.

You can choose to keep your standard brake booster or go a 34R one. The 34 is bigger and will give you better brake feel. It will bolt on, the only difference being that the plug for the sensor on the 34r booster is different. This is easy to modify for it to work though.

Your 32 lines will fit straight onto the 34 calipers.

Remove your backing plates when you install your calipers.

Hope this helps.

Problem is they really are not "that" much bigger/better.

Certainly not for the price people want anyway. Putting better rotors/pads/fluid/lines onto the factory set-up would be significantly better than a 2nd hand set of Brembo's for around the same cost or less.

Pretty certain you can get a 330 (or 325)mm rotor under the Sumi's - Roy has posted a few times about it.

Just something to think over anyway :D

Cheers Nismoid I'll think about what u have said

Have a look at the UAS upgrade packages... They move the caliper (r32 or r34) out and use a larger rotor. Along with fluid and pad upgrades you'll be golden.

There's not much point just upgrading the calipers without larger rotors.

You may have to upgrade to a 34gtr master cylinder for the 34gtr front calipers... I believe (don't quote me) the 34 master cylinder bolts up.

Cheers

J.

Dont waste your time with R34 GTR calipers if you have an R32 GTR. The R34 caliper is from a performance perspective identical to the OE Brembos fitted to the R33 GTR and R33 GTR. SO why buy an R34 GTR caliper which requires you to mod your hubs when the R32 and R33 Brembo GTR caliper are identical and bolt on?

As for master cylinders, dont stress. Lets assume you have the Sumitomo R32 GTR master cylinder in your car. That means you have a 25.4mm master cylinder.

The Brembo spec GTR brakes are paired with a 26.9mm master cylinder, but unless your R32 has ABS it makes it pretty hard to retrofit on your R32.

There will be no difference if you just run your std master cylinder. If you ever have a failure of the master clinder then it could be worthwhile investigating installing the bigger master cylinder, but I dont think its needed to make the install work.

thanks Roy, ive got a brand new Master cylinder in my car, it was put in not to long ago. My car was NOT fitted with abs from factory as its a Nismo edition.

thanks for all the heads up guys ill look into the UAS kits too. im in no hurry as my brakes now have brand new AMR1 pads and Brand new RDA sloted rotors, braided lines and are all in good nick.

Problem is they really are not "that" much bigger/better.

:down:

Dont waste your time with R34 GTR calipers if you have an R32 GTR. The R34 caliper is from a performance perspective identical to the OE Brembos fitted to the R33 GTR and R33 GTR. SO why buy an R34 GTR caliper which requires you to mod your hubs when the R32 and R33 Brembo GTR caliper are identical and bolt on?

As for master cylinders, dont stress. Lets assume you have the Sumitomo R32 GTR master cylinder in your car. That means you have a 25.4mm master cylinder.

The Brembo spec GTR brakes are paired with a 26.9mm master cylinder, but unless your R32 has ABS it makes it pretty hard to retrofit on your R32.

There will be no difference if you just run your std master cylinder. If you ever have a failure of the master clinder then it could be worthwhile investigating installing the bigger master cylinder, but I dont think its needed to make the install work.

^^ Yeah.

I too was thinking about R34 GTR Brembos, but realised they are similar to the R32 and R33 GTR ones.

So Deano 1, I say you just find a set of R32 or R33 GTR Brembos and should just be a straight bolt on fit...

I am in the same situation, on the look out for R33 GTR Brembos.

more info on the US kit. I was looking at R34 until I found hte differnces. R33Vspec I know will bolt to what I have , I was chatting to a fellow a few day back with them under a 32 GTR.

just keep the stockers deano, you dont drive hard enough to need bigger brakes... LOL you pansy :D

nor do I but the one time I need to stop in a hurry I will be able to..

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...