Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just bought a 2004+ V35 250GT Auto sedan 2 weeks ago . For a week now I've notice a clicking noise coming from some where in the engine, it occurs when i rev to around 1700RPM-2000RPM then it goes away with anything higher. Its a Very loud click/rattling sound and if i rev it in neutral at a stand still you can feel the whole car vibrating/shaking due to the clicking.

I will be taking it to my mechanic tmr, in the mean time dose anyone know what the problem might be?

Thx in advance

Edit: Also only occurs when accelerating not on idle or decelerating.Also just had the car service with oil change. is it possible there is too much oil in the engine?

Edited by Meebs
Hi, just bought a 2004+ V35 250GT Auto sedan 2 weeks ago . For a week now I've notice a clicking noise coming from some where in the engine, it occurs when i rev to around 1700RPM-2000RPM then it goes away with anything higher. Its a Very loud click/rattling sound and if i rev it in neutral at a stand still you can feel the whole car vibrating/shaking due to the clicking.

I will be taking it to my mechanic tmr, in the mean time dose anyone know what the problem might be?

Thx in advance

Edit: Also only occurs when accelerating not on idle or decelerating.Also just had the car service with oil change. is it possible there is too much oil in the engine?

There are plenty of different causes mate, just hope that it isn't anything too major. I'm sure your mechanic will diagnose it, but for now (to put your mind to ease) do a Google search and I'm sure you'll find a few threads in relation to this.

E.g.: http://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=10584

Sounds to me that it might be the throttle body, it happened to mine when I fitted my plenum spacer, take it off and clean the butterfly and surrounding area with brake clean to remove all carbon deposits.

it u bought it 2 weeks ago, then it is still under warranty. Take it back and see if they can get it fixed.

also with the oil thing, it only rattles if theres too little oil...not when overfilled

Update: after my mechanic took a look at it, the sound is coming from one of the VTEC(I didn't even know the engine had a VTEC,). Seems to be an issue with the sensors inside the VTEC or something. If you remove the blue cap thingy with the wires coming from the right VTEC the clicking noise goes away but engine lights goes on when you drive it. He was busy so im gonna bring it in again on Friday to get the full check. If anyone is familiar with the issue please enlighten me.

My mechanic also said its still ok to drive, so if it cost to much for parts and to fix i might just live with the problem. Also i doubt i can get any warranty out of it unless there's a ENGINE FAIL since i bought it from a close friend and traded him my dodgy Suzuki which is causing him more headaches then my V35 is to me lol.

Yer guess i meant VTC lol, the way he pronounced it made it sound like he said VTEC hahaWith the springs breaking would that caused the rattling at certain RPM? and km/h? What i've also notice is that on a cold start up or when the engine is cool there is no noise when i rev it to those troubled RPM's only once the engine gets warm and hot does it the issue occurs. Also once speed passes 50km/h+ the noise is gone even if i hit those Revs.

Thx for the info guys keep them coming :). the issue is really bugging me. Hopes its not gonna be to costly to fix.

Edit: well after alot of researching using the term VTC hehe, I've discovered alot of similar engine Nissans have had VTC issues. The solution i am getting is just to disconnect the VTC from the engine and sacrifice low end performance to get rid of the ticking noise since it seems replacing these VTC can cost up to $500 each.

Edited by Meebs

try looking at riverside infinity for parts. with the strong aussie dollar it may be cheaper to get spares from the US shipped.

from what i heard disconnecting the vtc not only sacrifices low end performance but can lead to higher fuel consumption. otherwise, the wreckers is ur next best bet for cheap parts.

  • 1 month later...

hi its me again, anyway after 3 weeks with my car at the mechanics, my mechanic is telling me the issue is coming from the cam gears (The passenger side VTC i think) which is goin to cost $1200 to replace but thats not all hes gonna have to also replace

*1 timing chain $235

*tensioners $85

*2 small timing chain $245

*2 small tensioners $235

some cooliant and other stuff around $100

all up around $2500 including labor. He said that due to "age" that i have to replace everything else and that the new cam gears also requires that i get all those little replacements.......

My question is dose this sound right to you? has anyone have any experience on replacing any of these items? hes goin to ship them from japan.

Other people are telling me just to replace the tensioners. Im prob gonna take it for second opinions to other mechanics. Any ideas and opinion will be greatly helpful cheers.

Mate I had a similar problem which came up about a week after I bought the car, same symptom with the knocking/clicking in that rev range. Luckily the car was under warranty and it didnt cost me a cent however the mechanic showed me the bill for the dealer and it was about 3K. It was some sort of magnet spring thing (NFI) in the VTC.

I've been reading alot into this on the internet and it seems 2000RPM is the magical rattling mark. But it seems the issues and solution varies a lot. The only thing that baffles me is that it only occurs once the engine starts warming up. Driving it around cold you cannot her the sound at all. Last time i'm ever gonna buy a used car from a private seller or any used car in that matter. Live n learn i guess lol

  • 1 year later...

had a noise like that in my new GTR a week after i bought her, turns out i blew the bottom end out, 8.5k forged rebuild being done now, get a 2nd mechanic to look at it, i had 3 look at the GTR b4 i gave it to a shop to fix her.

Edited by T4NK
  • 7 months later...

I have been living with that problem over a year now . I have decided to do something about it as it's driving me crazy. I took my car to a mechanic and told him about the problem. He thinks it might be the hydraulic valve lifters. he thinks they might be worn because of not being serviced regularly although I do service it but don't know the history of it before I had it.

If what he says is the correct diagnosis, valve lifters would cost $90 something each (that's what he said).

What do you guys thinks?

The noise is just unbearable, feels like there is a rattle gun in the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
    • Appreciate the insight! Talked to some local folks and they basically told me "it's not that deep." As long as the threading on the inside matches what's at the steering rack, everything else can be constructed-to-fit. There are full aftermarket kits I can use - probably better for my car overall since it's lowered.  Example: GKTech M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod Set - Nissan Skyline R32 R33 R33, 240SX, 300ZX, 350Z / Infiniti G35 M14I-TROD-2 gktM145-TROD gktM14I-TROD - Concept Z Performance (These can be packaged with their "high misalignment" tie rod ends).
×
×
  • Create New...