Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think it has anything to do with the cat.

As I mentioned earlier, there are two blue plugs ( see the attachment). They are the variable valve timing stuff. So If you unplug the one on the left hand side (driver's side), the noise's gone. whereas if it is plugged, you will get that ticking rattling noise up to 2000rmp and when you go over it, it disappears.

Therefore I don't think it has anything to do with the cat.

Some said it's the valve lifter, some said it's caused by a broken spring (valve spring), Nuwan said it might be timing chain.

I will take it to Nuwan's shop tomorrow as he sounds like he knows about these cars.

If it doesn't work, I'm planning to go to TAFE and do a mechanic course.

Sick and tired of it.


Edited by NISMO-61

Nuwan doesn't seem to know these electromagnetic VQ25's too well, the last guy got a 5k quote for engine out, replace cam chains etc and it wouldn't have fixed the issue. Will be interesting to see what he has to say.

Yours is a 2.5?

I can definitely have a look for you, get on to it soon as it will only get worse.

do you hear it when you rev in Neutral?

or just when your driving accelerating?

When the blue plug is plugged, you hear it in neutral ONLY when you kick the accelerator. If you let it run in idle, no problem at all.

when you drive, you hear it up to 2000rpm and then it disappears.

and is it like "metal to metal" rattling? like a tinny sound??

It's not tinny at all. It's like a rattle gun. It's a strong and disturbing sound.

Nuwan doesn't seem to know these electromagnetic VQ25's too well, the last guy got a 5k quote for engine out, replace cam chains etc and it wouldn't have fixed the issue. Will be interesting to see what he has to say.

Yours is a 2.5?

I can definitely have a look for you, get on to it soon as it will only get worse.

Mine is 3.0. VQ30DD engine.

Nuwan will have a look at it. I just rang him today and he said he is dealing with three more at the moment. I will just take it down there to see what he says.

where exactly you are Scotty. I would like to take it to your place and have a bit of discussion as well.

oh man, when you said it's not like a "tinny" sound, so not a metal to metal sound... then I would think it's not the Cats...

when you step on the accelerator in Neutral you can see hear the sound clearly is that right?

Correction, it is 'tinny'. I read is as 'tiny'. Sorry :unsure:

Yes it is tinny as if two metals are banging into each other. As i said it sounds like a rattle gun.

When I step on the accelerator in neutral, I can hear it until the rev gets over 2000rpm. Same thing happens while driving.

Correction, it is 'tinny'. I read is as 'tiny'. Sorry :unsure:

Yes it is tinny as if two metals are banging into each other. As i said it sounds like a rattle gun.

When I step on the accelerator in neutral, I can hear it until the rev gets over 2000rpm. Same thing happens while driving.

does the sound occur all the way from 0k rpm to 2000 rpms? or between say 1500 rpm to 2000 rpm?

and whereabouts is the sound coming from? engine bay or somewhere below the steering wheel/front wheel???

PM'd.

I have the same rattle just starting at the moment on my car, and I don't have too many spare assemblies. Mainly happens around 2200 - 2500 revs right? One clunk per revolution.

Mine happens up to 2000rpm as I believe that where the variable valve timing is needed. After 2000, there is no knocking noise at all.

Hi Nismo, how did you go? Did you end up getting the problem fixed?

I've decided to live with my noise as I'm pretty sure mine is just something loose down in the exhaust, I'll just get them to tighten some bolts down there at my next service.

  • 2 weeks later...

I dont think I will get it fixed.

If I try to sell the car, how much you reckon I would get?

Spend 3.5K to get it fixed........ I would rather drive it this way and when its completely dead I will sell the parts and get rid of it.

The next car I would buy is not going to be any more expensive than $500.

I'm sick and tired of new technology shits.

I dont think I will get it fixed.

If I try to sell the car, how much you reckon I would get?

Spend 3.5K to get it fixed........ I would rather drive it this way and when its completely dead I will sell the parts and get rid of it.

The next car I would buy is not going to be any more expensive than $500.

I'm sick and tired of new technology shits.

lol fair eniough mate, but 3.5k to get it fixed? You could buy a used engine for that price isn't it?

Is it just the VCT problem?

who quoted you 3.5k? seems abit much isn't it..

  • 1 year later...

It's not the timing chain, it is usually caused by the cvt actuator assembly. I have replaced a few now with s/h assemblies and fixed the noise.

Who diagnosed it to the chain anyway?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strange your posting about this being an issue. Move the harness or change your wheels or run more camber etc. Have the thing not touch the thing so it doesn't destroy the thing.  Short answer, no. Slightly longer answer, the factory fuel gauge is measuring resistance. You need to wire in the FPG fuel level sender into the original factory fuel level sender wiring.  I drew you a picture to explain this one The factory strainer is quite long, reaching down into the bottom of the tank. Safe bet your aftermarket fuel pump has a little baby sized strainer that probably doesn't even point down towards the bottom of the thank.  Solution, move the pump lower down in the tank, or fit a longer strainer, or do both. I did both, I've run my tank down to 5L remaining and the car still drove fine.   
    • S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t The SRS airbags module in under the centre console. The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel. FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go. S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.
    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
×
×
  • Create New...