Clicking/rattling Noise When Engine Rev

[R6n350GT]

i get a rattle upon starting cold start like oil pressure doesnt build up quick enough.

Not sure if the engine i brought had this issue but since rebuild it has done it. Tuner told me cause of the BC Stage 2 cams i have.. once its started i can turn it off and for the rest of the day it starts 100% until i leave it for long period ~5 hours then it does it again. 5W30, 5w40 oils tried.

New pistons, rods, rings, cams, timing chains, tensioners, water pump

used revup oil pump, VCT solenoids from another engine as i was getting ecu error

Engine fully machined, head work, new gaskets ect

Only thing not changed was cam gears ?

[scotty nm35]

So have you tried a 10w40 Nate? It probably won't bleed down as quick.

What oil filter are you using?

The cams may be making it worse due to the extra lift, it is probably just the top tensioners bleeding off overnight.

[R6n350GT]

So have you tried a 10w40 Nate? It probably won't bleed down as quick.

What oil filter are you using?

The cams may be making it worse due to the extra lift, it is probably just the top tensioners bleeding off overnight.

Tried the ones from supercheap Rico ? and also Mobil 1 EP108 or something.

Actually it does it abit after 1 hour but not as bad.

[seark1]

Thanks. Is it the vtc cover plus the pulley kits? Do you have the diagram or picture?. I need to make sure i buy the correct parts.

Previouly it was diagnoised by the workshop tech. That was about 15 months ago, before i found this forum.

[scotty nm35]

Here is the assembly in operation, you can see the coil and actuator mechanism bolted to the camshaft. It is the part inside the spring return that fails.

It can be changed without disassembling the engine if you are very brave. One false move and you will need to drop the engine, or at least the front timing cover.

[seark1]

I think i get what you mean. It is the gear with the spring. I got the quotation of about us$600 per set. What do you think of the costs?

[seark1]

Is there anything else that i need to replace. As i was told that the sprocket come in 1 set with the vtc cover.

[scotty nm35]

I think i get what you mean. It is the gear with the spring. I got the quotation of about us$600 per set. What do you think of the costs?

I just replace them with second hand items, as I have a few here. Do you know which side is faulty? If you unplug the blue plug on the actuator at the front of the engine, one at a time, you will easily find which side is noisy, that will tell you which actuator has a problem. This will throw a CEL though which will need to be cleared afterwards.

It could just be that you are running too thin an oil, as the cams are affected by viscosity. They should self learn to some extent, but the Consult 3 unit can speed that process up by activating the camshaft re-learn procedure. This may stop the noise if the actuator is still ok internally, so I would get this done beforehand.

[seark1]

Fine. Before replacing the timing chain, i heard the sound on the left. But once timing chain replaced the sound moved to the right. I guess the tech swabbed the gears. So at the moment it is on the right. But i hear the sound really bad at the moment. Worse than diesel engine.

It is great that you have used parts. I found it difficult to find here in my country. Moreover this model only a few in brunei. I think i shall just replace both sides.

You mentioned about engine oil. What grade of engine oil would you recommend? At the moment..i'm using 10-40w.

Are you selling your parts?. If yes how can i get them from you?

Edited May 2, 2014 by seark1

[scotty nm35]

I would have to see what I have laying around, but I should be able to supply one for you at least. Send me a PM and I will see what I can do to help. Have you tried Amayama for parts?

You should be fine with the 10w40, I always recommend that grade for Australia, and we have similar weather I guess, ie. not snowing.

[seark1]

I would have to see what I have laying around, but I should be able to supply one for you at least. Send me a PM and I will see what I can do to help. Have you tried Amayama for parts?

You should be fine with the 10w40, I always recommend that grade for Australia, and we have similar weather I guess, ie. not snowing.

My PM is [email protected] . I will try to look at amayama. Thanks.

[R6n350GT]

Here is the assembly in operation, you can see the coil and actuator mechanism bolted to the camshaft. It is the part inside the spring return that fails.

It can be changed without disassembling the engine if you are very brave. One false move and you will need to drop the engine, or at least the front timing cover.

so if i unplug both my vtc solenoids you saying the noise will go away ? once i start the noise is gone, ill try and video it.

as for 10w40

PENRITE EVERYDAY PLUS SEMI SYN 10W40 5 LTR or

Mobil super 2000 10w40 Semi Syn ?

Thanks

[scotty nm35]

No Nate, your engine and it's problems are different. This thread has become a 'my engine is noisy' thread and every noise most likely is a different fault. You engine doesn't run electronic actuators, it has hydraulic ones.

I wouldn't run either of those oils personally, but this is just a test to see how your engine responds to the slightly thicker oil at startup. Go the Penrite.

[seark1]

Hi scotty. Need your advice. What is the different between skyline v35 of 2001-2003 model to 2004 model. Are the engine the same? Are the Sprocket sizes are the same? I wanted to purchase the part no 13040S (Vtc & pulley). Unfortunate the supplier have only for 2001-2003 model. For 2004 model out of stock.

I wonder if 2001-2003 model will fit 2004 model.

Awaiting for your advice. Thanks.

[scotty nm35]

Pretty sure they are all the same, perhaps there was a slight design change though? I am sure the old part will work, perhaps they just bought the later parts from a different supplier?

Anything after June 04 required OBD2 protocol in Japan, which our engines never had. For that reason they were discontinued. Australia never allowed imported 04 non compliant cars as our OBD2 laws changed at the start of 2004.

You don't really need the sprockets, they should have been replaced with the chain anyway. (You should always change chains and sprockets together.)

[seark1]

Thanks. Unfortunate when we changed the chain previously, we did not change the sprocket.

So is it mean to say that the part number 13040S (vtc and pulley) is the same for 2001-2003 and 2004 model?

[scotty nm35]

I have no idea, can't Nissan tell you?

There are no differences between the engines as far as I know.

[NigelJ]

Here is the assembly in operation, you can see the coil and actuator mechanism bolted to the camshaft. It is the part inside the spring return that fails.

It can be changed without disassembling the engine if you are very brave. One false move and you will need to drop the engine, or at least the front timing cover.

Hi Scotty, I have a failed passenger side actuator which I need to replace. You mention that this can be changed without disassembling the engine if you are very brave, so was wandering if there are any tutorials or guidelines on how to do this. i would be extremely grateful for any advice on this.

[scotty nm35]

There are many tutorials on ruining engines.

It's not something even a mechanic would try, let alone a DIY. Good chance you will ruin your engine by bending every intake valve. Taking the assembly off the cam is easy, but then the cam chain doesn't have any support. If it skips a tooth on the crank you are screwed, engine out, unless you start it, then its time for a new engine. For this reason I always turn it over by hand a few rotations, just to make sure it's all in alignment. Quite often it isn't.

If you can find someone to do the work, they will still need to learn how all the parts integrate. It's not something I can explain in a Youtube video. It has taken me years to learn by rebuilding these components over and over, and assembling various engines out of the car from scratch.

Try reading the workshop manual, it might help you understand the complexity of the various cam assemblies. If you were local I would be more than willing to help.

[Cam-party-m35stagea]

Hey guys I had this same issue on my m35 stagea 

basically undo the two covers that protect the vtc on the front of the motor, Then carefully unplug the “blue plugs” adapter behind the cover.

There will be a solenoid sitting in the case you remove just slotted in by 2 pins. 
swap both solenoids over with eachother, then put them back on. 
 

if you want clean out the casing and the little oil hole which you’ll clearly see on the inside of the cone shaped support housing for the solenoid. 
I also degreased the inside of the solenoid by removing the little grommet at the base of the wiring on the solenoid and blew it out.

anyway, swap them over, if the noise changes sides you know all the rest of the bullshit the squinyon mechanics are telling you to swap in not necessary.

Also I did check the cam for movement by putting a spanner on the end of the cam, you should be able to twist it to tension the spring... when you turn it the right way push a little harder and it will lock into the safe lock and stop it in a position that you can’t move without oil pressure. But anyway lock it like I explained above and put her back together.

once you pull the covers off it’s very straight forward and would take any dumb c**t no longer than ten minutes to do. 
 

Mine luckily fixed the terrible knock that started at about 2k revs. 
hope it makes sense. I cbfed reading the novel I wrote so good luck.