Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've got a 1995 R33 GTS-4 with a fair bit of work done to it, so its the only reason I'm not selling car and upgrading to a GTR.

Just wondering as its AWD, whats the best option to turbo the car and costs involved?

1. GTR Front Cut (RB26 Engine and gearbox)

2. Stagea RB25DET (AWD)

3. R34 RB25DET NEO

Ive already got upgraded GTR brakes from when I did my 5 stud conversion. One less thing to do.

Any advice would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340096-r33-gts-4-to-turbo-conversion/
Share on other sites

Having started on a Stagea conversion of an r32 GTS4, because it was the "cheapest", the costs on a full RB Build up are very high, so much so that the RB26 and RB30 sump adaptor, don't look so bad after throwing dollars. Taking your NA and going plus a turbo is also worth considering if e85 is in your area. I'm more of a single turbo fan, which steered me from starting with the rb26. There are a lot of cheap gtr r33s around. I only started with a GTS4 because the price was very low.

My vote is RB30 plus adaptor because my Stagea conversion will wind up fairly pricey any way.

Having started on a Stagea conversion of an r32 GTS4, because it was the "cheapest", the costs on a full RB Build up are very high, so much so that the RB26 and RB30 sump adaptor, don't look so bad after throwing dollars. Taking your NA and going plus a turbo is also worth considering if e85 is in your area. I'm more of a single turbo fan, which steered me from starting with the rb26. There are a lot of cheap gtr r33s around. I only started with a GTS4 because the price was very low.

My vote is RB30 plus adaptor because my Stagea conversion will wind up fairly pricey any way.

this is assuming he wants big power/is going to build the motor before it goes in.

this is assuming he wants big power/is going to build the motor before it goes in.

I agree he needs to state the goal, if it's just 200kw atw, then na plus t or stock stagea front cut and minor up grades.

I recently completed a Stagea conversion on my 33 gts4. I found this was the least expensive way to do it. If you were to go for a 26 your would have to change a lot of gear that you wouldn't have to if you just go the 25. You do not have to change the loom and even your current radiator is up to the job of keeping everything cool. If you do end up deciding to do it I found swapping over the front diff was the hardest thing to do as I decided to stick with the longer GTS4 gear ratio. I picked up a bare motor for about $1600 or so, and from there you can do all the mods you like. I would imagine if you choose to get all stock parts the project would come to approximately $2500.

If your thinking of doing the 25 conversion and have any questions im open for a pm.

I recently completed a Stagea conversion on my 33 gts4. I found this was the least expensive way to do it. If you were to go for a 26 your would have to change a lot of gear that you wouldn't have to if you just go the 25. You do not have to change the loom and even your current radiator is up to the job of keeping everything cool. If you do end up deciding to do it I found swapping over the front diff was the hardest thing to do as I decided to stick with the longer GTS4 gear ratio. I picked up a bare motor for about $1600 or so, and from there you can do all the mods you like. I would imagine if you choose to get all stock parts the project would come to approximately $2500.

If your thinking of doing the 25 conversion and have any questions im open for a pm.

That sounds generous, logical, cost effective and sane. I was hoping he'd want to finish with something more like this...

For now I'll be putting it in as stock possibly use Stagea engine, but I'll be looking at upgrading plenum, fuel rail, cams, turbo, cooler, injectors etc later

Any recommendations on turbos for around the 250kw power mark?

Looking mainly at Garrett or HKS turbos

HKS GT-RS

HKS T04z

Garrett 35r

Garrett 2835

Trust/Greddy TD-05

That sounds generous, logical, cost effective and sane. I was hoping he'd want to finish with something more like this...

Haha, yea if you have 150,000 pounds then :blush:

For now I'll be putting it in as stock possibly use Stagea engine, but I'll be looking at upgrading plenum, fuel rail, cams, turbo, cooler, injectors etc later

Any recommendations on turbos for around the 250kw power mark?

Looking mainly at Garrett or HKS turbos

HKS GT-RS

HKS T04z

Garrett 35r

Garrett 2835

Trust/Greddy TD-05

Probably best to check out the turbo upgrade thread. But for 250kw i'd say just hiflow your stock turbo. Less work required in my opinion.

For now I'll be putting it in as stock possibly use Stagea engine, but I'll be looking at upgrading plenum, fuel rail, cams, turbo, cooler, injectors etc later

Any recommendations on turbos for around the 250kw power mark?

Looking mainly at Garrett or HKS turbos

HKS GT-RS

HKS T04z

Garrett 35r

Garrett 2835

Trust/Greddy TD-05

HKS kits great, what about the price.

Garrett turbos will require manifold mods to stock or a dedicated manifold, lines or a "kit" bringing it up towards the HKS price.

A high flow means stock lines heat shields, appearence when pulled over or at your first re rego.

I'm looking at Garrett turbos and am in a similar position. AFAICT -> http://horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_2.htm the 5th and 6th options are the only garrett turbos I have found that have the 6 bolt housing that you require.

I'm not interested in a rebuilt turbo, what other options for new direct bolt in turbos are there for RB20/25?

For now I'll be putting it in as stock possibly use Stagea engine, but I'll be looking at upgrading plenum, fuel rail, cams, turbo, cooler, injectors etc later

Any recommendations on turbos for around the 250kw power mark?

Looking mainly at Garrett or HKS turbos

HKS GT-RS

HKS T04z

Garrett 35r

Garrett 2835

Trust/Greddy TD-05

how much are you willing to spend?

If you do it in stages you would probably be better off just turboiing your engine, go a high flow for the power you want, spend good money on injectors, afm, fuel pump and ecu so later down the track you dont need to upgrade these again, if you feel the need for more power then you will have to add up the cost of a new engine which will depend on how much power you want.

For now I'll be putting it in as stock possibly use Stagea engine, but I'll be looking at upgrading plenum, fuel rail, cams, turbo, cooler, injectors etc later

Any recommendations on turbos for around the 250kw power mark?

Looking mainly at Garrett or HKS turbos

HKS GT-RS

HKS T04z

Garrett 35r

Garrett 2835

Trust/Greddy TD-05

Get a stock Rb25 or neo turbo rebuilt with steel wheels and put it on your current engine - that might keep you happy for a while - and you can transfer it to your Stagea engine later if you decide to go that way (will make 250kw on the rb25).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...