Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 206
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you'll want to swap the diffs back if your after more acceleration.

auto- 3.9-1

Manual - 3.7-1

or, if you can find them, pintara pinion and crown wheel for 4.1-1 ratio

and with the speedo issue, the 31s and 33s both have electronic speedos. you need a Speedo Interceptor (jaycar sell them) and the just adjust it using a navman or something.

will get the pics soon. all depends on if i can sum up some motivation and walk downstairs, move the car, jack it up and then roll around in crap.

as far as i know oil lines run from turbo to engine with a oil pump to assist.

i have a separate oil cooler for the trans.

i've sourced a r31 skyline diff with lsd. and i believe thats a 4.11? and i think the pinny's have 4.1

i could be wrong. and just so i know, the bigger the ratio the better acceleration, ie 4.11 is better then 3.7?

cheers

will get the pics soon. all depends on if i can sum up some motivation and walk downstairs, move the car, jack it up and then roll around in crap.

as far as i know oil lines run from turbo to engine with a oil pump to assist.

i have a separate oil cooler for the trans.

i've sourced a r31 skyline diff with lsd. and i believe thats a 4.11? and i think the pinny's have 4.1

i could be wrong. and just so i know, the bigger the ratio the better acceleration, ie 4.11 is better then 3.7?

cheers

4.11 will get you better take off and higher cruising rpm's, 3.7 will give you better top speed and lower cruising rpm's

ah thank you. i'm looking for take off as i care not for my fuel consumption.

does any one have any thoughts on installing an r33 auto gearbox. i was put under the impression today that they'll handle more power then an r33 manual box.

cheers

Kurt

does any one have any thoughts on installing an r33 auto gearbox. i was put under the impression today that they'll handle more power then an r33 manual box.

cheers

Kurt

Manual is much stronger till you spend a few Grand on the auto, would definately be stronger than a 31 auto tho

If i was you i would try to keep it auto, a friend had a 5 speed turbo 31 and he changed to an auto with a hi stall and the thing was awesome, there not the best handling things till you start putting S13 struts and brakes on em so you would be better of with the auto for straight line speed and a small amount of twisty action.

yeah i want to keep it auto. already have a stall convertor. My next step is the r33 auto box and lsd. Then a full s13 suspension conversion along with break upgrade (something like r33gtr or gtst breaks, the four piston ones) and fatter tires with good tires. then after that more engine performance.

best way to tell what ratio you have is to pull the back cover off the diff before you install it and see whats stamped on the crownwheel. i think 4.11s are 37:9

manual 31 skylines are 3.7 factory (except gts)

auto 31 skylines are 3.9 factory

and all 31 pintaras are 4.11 factory, also 25 spline centre and axles instead of the 28 spline the skylines got.

and only the silo's and gts's came with lsd's, shit ones at that

im getting the lsd for about 70 big ones so im not fussed, its gotta be better then what i got. but i will have a look at it before i buy it. what tools are needed to remover the back cover? and will shit, ie oil, pour out?

and i'm looking for 37:9 to be stamped?

im getting the lsd for about 70 big ones so im not fussed, its gotta be better then what i got. but i will have a look at it before i buy it. what tools are needed to remover the back cover? and will shit, ie oil, pour out?

and i'm looking for 37:9 to be stamped?

just a socket, ratchet and possibly a flathead screwdriver to pry it off. cant remember what size bolts they are, probably 12 or 14mm.

unless its been drained it'll be full of oil, if you sit the diff so the back cover is pointing up then it wont piss out. yer your looking for a ratio stamped on it like 37:9, or you can count the teeth on the crownwheel and the teeth on the pinion and figure it out that way.

and only the silo's and gts's came with lsd's, shit ones at that

Holdens are much the same of that era, most VL and R31 ppl dont bother trying to chase an lsd because the power of the turbo will kill it any way, my mates had a mini spool (locked) diff, was easy to drive in wet and dry and mega predictable when having some fun.

cheers. Disregarding money then what would be the best diff to get then? and then regarding money, what would be the best diff to get?

and here's some pictures for ya's:

STS Setup:

post-77498-0-72453600-1294130554_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-72336200-1294130581_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-55555500-1294130602_thumb.jpg

Engine Bay:

post-77498-0-83458300-1294130628_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-40145100-1294130648_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-71952000-1294130668_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-30575600-1294130696_thumb.jpg

There ya go. Threw in the engine bay pics so ya can let me know how sleeper it looks. I'm thinking if a cop or someone uneducated were to look at that at night they wouldn't no any better?

cheers and once again sorry for the wait.

Kurt

I think you have more of a chance of being defected on suspicion, after all the intake pipe is coming from where it normally would if it had a turbo on it, and if you get some one who decides to trace the pipe (all cops carry torch's day and night) then your getting an epa, to make it stealth you really needed to tell your mechanic to put in the extra work when he put it in, about the only way you could possibly hide it, atleast partially, is to chrome the intake pipe to about 3/4 of the way down the engine bay and from there on paint it matt black, get a pod filter and make enough of a hole down the middle that you can slide it over the the pipe far enough that the chrome ends under the pod filter, hopefully that way all they see is a chrome pipe with a pod filter on the end of it and the rest of the matt black painted pipe will not catch there eye past the chrome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
×
×
  • Create New...