Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 206
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you'll want to swap the diffs back if your after more acceleration.

auto- 3.9-1

Manual - 3.7-1

or, if you can find them, pintara pinion and crown wheel for 4.1-1 ratio

and with the speedo issue, the 31s and 33s both have electronic speedos. you need a Speedo Interceptor (jaycar sell them) and the just adjust it using a navman or something.

will get the pics soon. all depends on if i can sum up some motivation and walk downstairs, move the car, jack it up and then roll around in crap.

as far as i know oil lines run from turbo to engine with a oil pump to assist.

i have a separate oil cooler for the trans.

i've sourced a r31 skyline diff with lsd. and i believe thats a 4.11? and i think the pinny's have 4.1

i could be wrong. and just so i know, the bigger the ratio the better acceleration, ie 4.11 is better then 3.7?

cheers

will get the pics soon. all depends on if i can sum up some motivation and walk downstairs, move the car, jack it up and then roll around in crap.

as far as i know oil lines run from turbo to engine with a oil pump to assist.

i have a separate oil cooler for the trans.

i've sourced a r31 skyline diff with lsd. and i believe thats a 4.11? and i think the pinny's have 4.1

i could be wrong. and just so i know, the bigger the ratio the better acceleration, ie 4.11 is better then 3.7?

cheers

4.11 will get you better take off and higher cruising rpm's, 3.7 will give you better top speed and lower cruising rpm's

ah thank you. i'm looking for take off as i care not for my fuel consumption.

does any one have any thoughts on installing an r33 auto gearbox. i was put under the impression today that they'll handle more power then an r33 manual box.

cheers

Kurt

does any one have any thoughts on installing an r33 auto gearbox. i was put under the impression today that they'll handle more power then an r33 manual box.

cheers

Kurt

Manual is much stronger till you spend a few Grand on the auto, would definately be stronger than a 31 auto tho

If i was you i would try to keep it auto, a friend had a 5 speed turbo 31 and he changed to an auto with a hi stall and the thing was awesome, there not the best handling things till you start putting S13 struts and brakes on em so you would be better of with the auto for straight line speed and a small amount of twisty action.

yeah i want to keep it auto. already have a stall convertor. My next step is the r33 auto box and lsd. Then a full s13 suspension conversion along with break upgrade (something like r33gtr or gtst breaks, the four piston ones) and fatter tires with good tires. then after that more engine performance.

best way to tell what ratio you have is to pull the back cover off the diff before you install it and see whats stamped on the crownwheel. i think 4.11s are 37:9

manual 31 skylines are 3.7 factory (except gts)

auto 31 skylines are 3.9 factory

and all 31 pintaras are 4.11 factory, also 25 spline centre and axles instead of the 28 spline the skylines got.

and only the silo's and gts's came with lsd's, shit ones at that

im getting the lsd for about 70 big ones so im not fussed, its gotta be better then what i got. but i will have a look at it before i buy it. what tools are needed to remover the back cover? and will shit, ie oil, pour out?

and i'm looking for 37:9 to be stamped?

im getting the lsd for about 70 big ones so im not fussed, its gotta be better then what i got. but i will have a look at it before i buy it. what tools are needed to remover the back cover? and will shit, ie oil, pour out?

and i'm looking for 37:9 to be stamped?

just a socket, ratchet and possibly a flathead screwdriver to pry it off. cant remember what size bolts they are, probably 12 or 14mm.

unless its been drained it'll be full of oil, if you sit the diff so the back cover is pointing up then it wont piss out. yer your looking for a ratio stamped on it like 37:9, or you can count the teeth on the crownwheel and the teeth on the pinion and figure it out that way.

and only the silo's and gts's came with lsd's, shit ones at that

Holdens are much the same of that era, most VL and R31 ppl dont bother trying to chase an lsd because the power of the turbo will kill it any way, my mates had a mini spool (locked) diff, was easy to drive in wet and dry and mega predictable when having some fun.

cheers. Disregarding money then what would be the best diff to get then? and then regarding money, what would be the best diff to get?

and here's some pictures for ya's:

STS Setup:

post-77498-0-72453600-1294130554_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-72336200-1294130581_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-55555500-1294130602_thumb.jpg

Engine Bay:

post-77498-0-83458300-1294130628_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-40145100-1294130648_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-71952000-1294130668_thumb.jpg

post-77498-0-30575600-1294130696_thumb.jpg

There ya go. Threw in the engine bay pics so ya can let me know how sleeper it looks. I'm thinking if a cop or someone uneducated were to look at that at night they wouldn't no any better?

cheers and once again sorry for the wait.

Kurt

I think you have more of a chance of being defected on suspicion, after all the intake pipe is coming from where it normally would if it had a turbo on it, and if you get some one who decides to trace the pipe (all cops carry torch's day and night) then your getting an epa, to make it stealth you really needed to tell your mechanic to put in the extra work when he put it in, about the only way you could possibly hide it, atleast partially, is to chrome the intake pipe to about 3/4 of the way down the engine bay and from there on paint it matt black, get a pod filter and make enough of a hole down the middle that you can slide it over the the pipe far enough that the chrome ends under the pod filter, hopefully that way all they see is a chrome pipe with a pod filter on the end of it and the rest of the matt black painted pipe will not catch there eye past the chrome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...