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They have to suspect something first though. I'm not even sure what powers the police have when it comes to defects and inspecting your car. ie: if a cop asks you to pop your bonnet and rev the shit out of your car, do you have to? (I'm in tasi)

I've been pulled over a few times and they've only ever done there supposibly "Random" breath test and licence check.

I like that pod idea, might look into it, the pipe is chrome, we painted over it to make it look more low profile, because personally a big chrome intake pipe just screams "mod" to me.

For the time being what i have will have to do.

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I think you have more of a chance of being defected on suspicion

If they catch you doing a burnout they will just make something up to get you defected, they don't really need any evidence at all and when you go through the defect inspection they will find the turbo installation, guaranteed.

Just keep this in mind that if you get it defected you'll have to take it all out and return to stock, or buy another car and transplant it. I doubt engineering it to be legal would be cheap or easy.

Just keep this in mind that if you get it defected you'll have to take it all out and return to stock, or buy another car and transplant it. I doubt engineering it to be legal would be cheap or easy.

Depending on who you get at rta in tassie (and how strict they are) you should just be able to dissconect the turbo add a muffler, a different intake pipe with a pod on it or go back to the air box set up, and you should be right, the 31 i mentioned earlier was actually owned by 3 of my mates, one of them got a defect for something and instead of removing all the turbo set up he just disconnected the wastegate and ran a pipe from the plenum with a pod on it and after a bit of haggling with the rwc guy he managed to get a rwc like that.

The benefit with this set up is that everything is in the back so if you do get defected you should only have to make things right in the engine bay, an epa is a different story, best be keeping the stock exhaust that came of just incase that happens.

btw do you know what pump he put in to send the oil back to the engine?

A good idea would be to make up a bash/cover plate to go under your set up, make it less visible and stop most of the water, dirt and general crud bouncing up into your oil lines.

Depending on who you get at rta in tassie (and how strict they are) you should just be able to dissconect the turbo add a muffler, a different intake pipe with a pod on it or go back to the air box set up, and you should be right, the 31 i mentioned earlier was actually owned by 3 of my mates, one of them got a defect for something and instead of removing all the turbo set up he just disconnected the wastegate and ran a pipe from the plenum with a pod on it and after a bit of haggling with the rwc guy he managed to get a rwc like that.

The benefit with this set up is that everything is in the back so if you do get defected you should only have to make things right in the engine bay, an epa is a different story, best be keeping the stock exhaust that came of just incase that happens.

btw do you know what pump he put in to send the oil back to the engine?

A good idea would be to make up a bash/cover plate to go under your set up, make it less visible and stop most of the water, dirt and general crud bouncing up into your oil lines.

a rwc is completely different to a defect, if it gets defected there is no way you'll get passed unless it is all returned to stock, ecu, injectors, fuel reg everything.

a rwc is completely different to a defect, if it gets defected there is no way you'll get passed unless it is all returned to stock, ecu, injectors, fuel reg everything.

Well i can only go off what happens in vic, here you get a defect and depending on minor or major you need to get a rwc, you then take the car to vic roads and they check the defect items and your done, if you get an epa notice and have to do an epa test then everything has to be put back to factory, not for a defect tho.

4.11 will get you better take off and higher cruising rpm's, 3.7 will give you better top speed and lower cruising rpm's

that said you'll only be doing around 250-300rpm more at 100kph

yeah i want to keep it auto. already have a stall convertor. My next step is the r33 auto box and lsd. Then a full s13 suspension conversion along with break upgrade (something like r33gtr or gtst breaks, the four piston ones) and fatter tires with good tires. then after that more engine performance.

i did the same with my last 31. if its just street duties and occasional track days r33 gts 2pots and rotors are a good up grade + you have a much larger choice of wheels as the 4pots come out 40mm past the hub

best way to tell what ratio you have is to pull the back cover off the diff before you install it and see whats stamped on the crownwheel. i think 4.11s are 37:9

manual 31 skylines are 3.7 factory (except gts)

auto 31 skylines are 3.9 factory

and all 31 pintaras are 4.11 factory, also 25 spline centre and axles instead of the 28 spline the skylines got.

and only the silo's and gts's came with lsd's, shit ones at that

quoted for truth. had mine rebuilt with commie VY cones (apparently the same but with stronger locking) and it was noisy within 2 years

the pinion and crown wheel from the pinni can be swapped directly onto the skyline diff/center

another way is to turn the wheels for 1 rotation and count the turns of the tailshaft.

Don't do burnouts and i don't hoon so i don't see my self giving them an excuse to pull me over. I know they don't need an excuse and will pull you over for next to nothing but i haven't had any drama's yet.

And thanks for the info Van Von. And everyone else i think we should get back to my car. My mechanic suggested trying water/metho injection. What are peoples thoughts on this? I was thinking running a pwr water to air intercooler and then only running the water/metho when on full throttle, ie; only when i want to boot it and get a bit more power.

Any idea's on making this setup low key? Including the intercooler placement. And would using the window washer bottle as the metho resovoir be dangerous due to engine bay heat and the fact that 50/50 water metho is still flamable?

Cheers

Kurt

My mates had a front mount, he cut minimal amount of front bar for decent air flow and painted the cooler black, unless you were bending down in front of the car looking for a front mount you would never see it.

water meth can be good if you are limited by ignition and intake temps, but if you haven't maxed out the turbo yet then I wouldn't bother, you will probably find the limits of stock pistons and bottom end before you need water meth. Also whilst it works well if you run out mid boosting say good by motor.

I would consider E85 before you try water meth, E85 means more ignition and more boost and more power!

My mates had a front mount, he cut minimal amount of front bar for decent air flow and painted the cooler black, unless you were bending down in front of the car looking for a front mount you would never see it.

i've seen a few cars with the black intercoolers ( probably haven't noticed a lot of them), i have been considering it, but i was thinking a water air cooler would work better? Depending on where i mount it hopefully could eliminate heat soak after tha car is turned off.

water meth can be good if you are limited by ignition and intake temps, but if you haven't maxed out the turbo yet then I wouldn't bother, you will probably find the limits of stock pistons and bottom end before you need water meth. Also whilst it works well if you run out mid boosting say good by motor.

I would consider E85 before you try water meth, E85 means more ignition and more boost and more power!

I don't have stock pistons, the whole engine had been rebuilt and its been built to be tough. But like you say if its the last thing ya do when you want that bit more power i'll stick with the intercooler for now. And i don't think i would run out of the stuff. I'd be mega paranoid and would check/ refill it before every drive. haha.

Just realised how easy qouting is. Kinda proud of my self.

Cheers

Kurt

In that case I would push the turbo to its limits before looking at water meth, very easy to make 300kw before then, it is just extra complexity that can go wrong and if it does (pump breaks etc) it'll fry your motor right there and then.

same deal with water to air, good if done properly, but a good air to air is good enough most the time, if its done badly then w2a can be worse due to bad heat soak.

Edited by Rolls

a front mount would kind of negate the whole reason for going the sts setup wouldn’t it?

i thing the water to air cooler would be good if you can fit it under the car or, i dont know if it would work, replace the turbo to plenum pipe with a finned alloy pipe. kinda like a heat sink.

also then you could put the standard air box back in and run the intake through it for ultimate standard look

i wouldn’t worry about power upgrades till you've run the car in.

a front mount would kind of negate the whole reason for going the sts setup wouldn’t it?

Not if done properly, would be pretty much invisible.

One of the problems with water to air is that it is great on low boost anf low flow situations (factory set up) but cant keep up with higher more constant boost, unless your willing to spend thousands on a custom water to air set up then an air to air would do a better job.

I wont be doing the power upgrades for sometime. Just trying to find out what is best for my setup that way if something comes up cheap i can grab it or what not.

I'm only really aiming for 300rwkw, so if i can get there without water/metho then i wont even go near it. I don't really like the thought of it too much.

Next time the car is up on the hoist i'll have a look under and around to see if i can fit anything anywhere.

I'm sure my mechanic will have some sort of idea. With a fmic, if i were to get a black one, have the intercoolers intake on the bottom passenger side so the pipe from the turbo can run along the bottom of the engine bay (hopefully out of site) and the have the outlet for the intercooler on the top passenger side, feeding into the factory air box hidden under the factory plastic snorkel thing, and then have it feed out of the bottom of the box where it would normally be and into the plenum.

Hope that makes sense? i'll try google something that looks simular or perhaps edit a picture.

Cheers

Kurt

nice project mate- i wouldnt worry about chrome plating pipes or putting a 'spare' pod on to make it look like thats the air intake, save your cash for a stronger 'box. It looks way sleeper as it is, 99% of cops wouldnt second guess your engine bay at all, looks boring as and well maintained.

ca 18 375cc injectors, all cleaned and flow tested.

As far as i know they should be suffiecent enough to handle the power i want to get out of the car.

Whats your car putting to the wheels?

you're probably close to maxing out those injectors already.

I would consider E85 before you try water meth, E85 means more ignition and more boost and more power!

unfortunately the only way to use e85 over here atm is to buy it by the barrell, which is expensive. caltex arent interested in shipping it over here and even if they were its still illegal to sell in WA.

375cc injectors will max out somewhere between 190rwkw and 240rwkw depending on a few things.

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