Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This basically happens when the engines displacement is too small for the turbo application. What you need to do is think of it a little like this. An rb26 with twin turbos is essentially like having x2 1300cc displacement engines with single turbos on each (which in most cases is too large for the displacement. As you can imagine as you increase the turbo size (say gtrs's, -10's or even -5's) your tubro shuffle, compressor surge or axi-symmetrical compressor stall (what ever the hell you want to call it) will get worse. Hence why almost all gtr's fitted with gtr's or -10's will shuffle at some point in the rev range. Get an sr20 slap on one of the said turbo's to it and you wont see that type of shuffle (2000cc displacement engine running a turbo more efficient for its displacement).

Now on how to try cure it. You can increase tge turbine housing to try slow the compressor down, (or use smaller turbos), but here you will run into another dilema, LAG. You can increase the engine displacement (why you generally wont here shuffle on a rb30/26 engine with -10's etcetc). You can try have your tuner tune it out, baffled turbo pipes etcetc. But the most effective way ive found is to use a 3 dimensional boostcontroller. Its basically an electronic controlled solenoid (by the ECM) with an rpm input ( which alters the duty cycle of the boost control valve as the RPM changes), and a throttle position sensor input (tells the turbo how much power the drive is demanding and essentially tells the turbo how much air the engine is capable of swallowing to avoid such a surge). 9 times out of 10 this will work.

p.s ( i love brackets)

just finished re-reading HPI 126. was like de-ja vu reading this 20 mins later on. even same examples... except for the brackets

just finished re-reading HPI 126. was like de-ja vu reading this 20 mins later on. even same examples... except for the brackets

Thought the same thing. Maybe Martin Donnon has a second account hes using on here?

can u put more preload or tighten the bovs?

i think the bov's are opening on light throttle load - dont know why tho

The bov opening on low throttle (the stock ones do) will actually fix mild compressor surge.

Is now all but gone, Ignition timing appears to have shifter (car was feeling really slow) anything upto 15degrees retarded (yes really) barely does it now

Running too much retard will cause the turbos too boost much earlier and also cause it.

Edited by Rolls
  • 1 month later...

Time resurrect this.... because it is BACK!!!! Timing is now spot on 15deg, the turbo shuffle went, and with no changes made it has started to get turbo shuffle again.... But now.. It also has a couple of flat spots, and after a while of normal driving will really need a couple of decent runs to clear it out and get it going properly, it is not that long since I ran injector cleaner through it (not because it was playing up, just figured it could be worthwhile) but was still before it was running perfectly that the injector cleaner was in it. So all that has happened since it was running perfectly is that it has been driven to and from work, it has had a couple of little blats here and there but the thing gets babied 98% of the time.

I have not ruled out the possibilty of a cam being a tooth out, but is this likely to cause the probs I am getting?

Light throttle application, normally going uphill, the only way to stop it is to get off the throttle all together and start again, pretty much anytime you try to maintain a speed going uphill it does it. Has standard ECU, does not seem that accelerating will solve it

I've had GT-SS's, I now have -5s - no comp surge at all using factory piping and BOV's.

I've even used the stock ECU with GT-SS's on 15psi and it was fine.

Sounds like you need to visit a dyno and see what is going on. Timing/AFR etc.

Also you kinda do need a tune dude with larger turbos...

Yeah, have the PFC and am working to get approval for the tune... Just seems funny it went away for 2-3 months...

Weather is starting to change now that we are in a new season, probably effecting the way the turbo is making positive pressure. Air density, temp, precipitation changing etc will all have an effect...

I get the feeling people are crawling up hills using 1.68% throttle especially at higher speed.

Throttle body not open ?

That's ok here is a nice big high speed high load condition for you Mr Rb26.

WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.

WOO WOOOOOOOOOOO

"Come on Thomas, you have to help Percy up the hill" Said the Fat Controller.

Edited by Nee-san

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...