Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

m35 stagea 2002

I received an email from the company doing my compliance.

They wrote:

Stagea’s are common for wearing out the front lower control arm bush, which would deny it a safety certificate until replaced

I am unsure of what that means but is this something that is easily sourced and simple to replace or is a special Nissan part required?

can i strengthen or upgrade this without affecting compliance.

What is the function of this part/unit?

Although my car hasn't landed yet I need to get prepared as i

don't have a lot of time due to my intended driving holiday.

Thanks in advance

Edited by samuri
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340283-worn-control-arm-bushes-whats-that/
Share on other sites

m35 stagea 2002

I received an email from the company doing my compliance.

They wrote:

Stagea's are common for wearing out the front lower control arm bush, which would deny it a safety certificate until replaced

I am unsure of what that means but is this something that is easily sourced and simple to replace or is a special Nissan part required?

can i strengthen or upgrade this without affecting compliance.

What is the function of this part/unit?

Although my car hasn't landed yet I need to get prepared as i

don't have a lot of time due to my intended driving holiday.

Thanks in advance

funny you mention this.. if its the same busher im replacing on both sides thats making my front suspension creak pm on my m35!

if it is the same piece your talking about that wears , its generally a t -piece like bolt sleeved with a busher over it that connects a control arm and tie arm together. i purchased 2 from nissan for $55 inc gst.

probably going to cost me $100 give or take to install at the suspension shop.

hope that helps... ive got a breakdown of the whole front suspension diagram somewhere ill scan it up when found.

This part?

post-31456-1286947031_thumb.jpg

is thats what your saying about the creaking and etc? i've been annoyed with that for ages

can you take photos of what you've bought and the part numbers soon??

These same bushes get dry on C34's and creak away...

Drop wheel, remove bolt carefully, two spring assisted seals on each end remove these, pull out the insert re-grease everything bolt back up and should be sweet :-)

These same bushes get dry on C34's and creak away...

Drop wheel, remove bolt carefully, two spring assisted seals on each end remove these, pull out the insert re-grease everything bolt back up and should be sweet :-)

sorry to hyjak but it might be relevant

The rubber part on the car i am pointing to is pretty flogged also.. i was thinking of using some polyurethane stuff i have here that i used many years ago to make solid engine mounts in my gtir..

but i am unsure if thats my issue of knocking sounds in the front left

heres what the arm looks like off the car.

600x450-2009073000008.jpg

funny you mention this.. if its the same busher im replacing on both sides thats making my front suspension creak pm on my m35!

if it is the same piece your talking about that wears , its generally a t -piece like bolt sleeved with a busher over it that connects a control arm and tie arm together. i purchased 2 from nissan for $55 inc gst.

probably going to cost me $100 give or take to install at the suspension shop.

hope that helps... ive got a breakdown of the whole front suspension diagram somewhere ill scan it up when found.

Great

thanks.

This part?

post-31456-1286947031_thumb.jpg

is that what your saying about the creaking and etc? i've been annoyed with that for ages

can you take photos of what you've bought and the part numbers soon??

Thanks . the photo is very useful

Edited by samuri
  • 2 years later...

Yes I am in the same boat, but when I contacted nissan they want to order the entire control arm and not just the bush! Nissan want to charge $400 for one side!

I'm despirately trying to locate someone who can sell me just the rear bush in the front lower control arm but it's proving to be harder than I thought. I've tried a few places but they only have them for the 2 wheel drive version or only the M34 where I have the M35 AWD

Cheers

Micah

Just FYI- you'll need someone with a press to get that in for you. Its not a push in kinda part, cut out the old one, and press in the new one. Also suggest getting the ones with the castor offset ;)

With the offset bushes, as with the swaybars, BC's and underbody bracing, the car keeps getting noticeably better turn in. I can't believe how much better the handling has become from the saggy whale like feel it had when I bought it.

Highly recommended.

I replaced mine about 15k ago. In my previous Axis I did the mistake of putting in custom made nolathane bushes, never ever again, over speed humps and up driveways squeeked like a mofo.

I got mine as the hole arm with bush pressed in, the bush is sort of actually moulded to the arm, original from Nissan Japan, price was $144 AUD per side

54468N (RH)

54469 (LH)

Only squeak I have is somewhere in the back, but haven't replaced any bushes back there.

Check boot for backpacker.

Re-tie mouth gag.

Dispose of body.

No more squeak.

You're welcome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
    • I'm a bit stuck with this one fellas, I recently decided to undertake a turbo conversion on my GTS-4, ended up pulling the motor to replace all the seals and do an mls head gasket and arp head studs while I was at it. Everything has gone according to plan, no oil or coolant leaks, compression checked out, and decided to give it a test before I book it in for a tune As it stands right now, the turbo only has oil lines plumbed so that I don't put boost into my untuned engine, and I'm using the factory GTS-T crossover pipe with a maf and poddy as a temporary intake. The car starts with relative ease and idles amazingly, however as the title suggests it really doesn't want to rev up, runs very smooth but almost feels choked out and unresponsive to the throttle, almost like it's running lean or something? I've triple checked my vacuum lines and timing with a timing light, injectors haven't been touched as of yet to avoid flooding the engine and worked perfectly beforehand, new plugs and coilpacks, I've even unbolted the cat just to see if it spontaneously collapsed, no dice The car currently has a nistune r32 gtst ecu installed so I have no way to check for fault codes. At this point I'm a bit stumped. Is this normal behaviour for a car with a turbo bolted onto the exhaust going nowhere? I'd imagine the turbo wouldn't cause this much restriction in the exhaust without the boost going through the intake. Any ideas? If necessary I can link a video of how it responds to full throttle while in neutral.  
    • Insert tab A into slot B?
    • Instructions seem simple enough to understand.....
×
×
  • Create New...