Jump to content
SAU Community

Making Lobster Back Piping

Proximity Motorsport

By Proximity Motorsport,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Daniel R32
Daniel R32

Thought i might as well throw up some lobster backs ive done. Did this 33 with all bends lobster backed, and everything in the engine bay lobster backed.. Even the straight sections were made from lo

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

I back purge all my stainless, the black eruptions on the back are a bitch to grind back so I feel its worth the gas so I don't have to. I haven't used the pulse function much, perhaps I should play

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

I love the freedom lobster piping allows for tight bends and spiral work. Here is a stealth boot mount GT35 in a V8 Soarer I worked on recently.

Posted Images

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Heres inside the tube I back purge all my pipe work so there is no dags inside the pipe and when you get full penetration like above the welds are ALOT stronger.

I have had my Stainless tube work pressure tested at over 20bar without issue :yes:

DSC_0689.jpg

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Thanks :) yes they are all just fused no filler wire mate. I weld fairly hot but I move fast as I walk the ceramic (a welding technique) I weld tube at about 55 amps but if you are still learning id suggest around 40-45 amps depending on your welder as some are hotter than others. For welding tube id suggest getting a gas lense as it gives better gas coverage over your arc. No fancy settings just set the right amps (machine pending) I set my ramp up fairly cold at bout 20amp base temp at 50-55amp and I set my ramp down to about 3.5 seconds and my post purge to bout 5 seconds. If you look at pic above you can see where I start to ramp down the amps and continue weaving up the tube. Notice the colour change towards the end where I let the post purge cool down end of the run (the bluey colour)

When I purge I run about 5-7 lpm through the tube with basically a hole I stab with my filler wire.

Yes I used pickling paste to clean the welds but just polish it by hand with green scotchbrite pads

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

HAHA thanks Johnny well it is what I do for a living so id hope id be good at it lol!

To that I answer is the pope a catholic? Cash and beer are both very important parts of my life :yes:

damnnnnn Mick, that's top notch welding!

Hope you're up for some welding and payment by slabs of beer & cash lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Squeaky bushes

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.
    • silviaz
      Squeaky bushes

      By silviaz · Posted

      @GTSBoy I found the issue (sort of) when I took apart the bushing again, it was completely dry inside! When I experimented with it, all the grease would push out when I would compress the bushings. I wonder if this has anything to do with me putting in the poly bush first on both sides and then pushing in the metal barrel. Maybe I should have put in the metal barrel first then the rubber bushings so the spread pattern is different.   It's fixed (for now).
    • silviaz
      Can't put strut back

      By silviaz · Posted

      Just redid that entire job. 4 hours, but tightened everything properly. Had to jack the rotor instead of having the car on blocks as there was no room for the FUCA arms to tighten and the j arm. All good now. Cheers for the help!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I would sell those side feeds before you hydra-lock a motor. I won't say too much about Yellow Jackets because I'll hurt people's feelings, however ask those that tune RBs day in/out what they think of them.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
×
×
  • Create New...