Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the heads up guys, I went down to Supergas for a winge today and ended up speaking to the sales manager on the phone while at the counter. He ended up giving me a 10.5m3 refill for $125, less than half what I was paying.

I don't have pics of the damaged manifolds, one I had to repair, and one I saw on a car, the crack was definitely down in the webbing but it could have started beside the weld and cracked further away as it made it's way around the pipe. I didn't get a good look at it as it was on the car. It was probably 2mm tube so very thin and light stainless. It would glow white hot on the dyno within a second or two of hitting boost. My point was, he had a GT42 mounted without a hanger or support, and a 4 inch exhaust with no hangers till the diff. Perhaps it would have lasted longer if the manifold could move around on the head a little and the turbo was supported.

Still need to make a inlet for the bov

Let me know what you guys think !

Looks good Angelo, just face the BOV return towards the compressor, cut on a 45 degree angle, and weld it in. It will take a while to die grind the hole, partly the reason I use alloy for my intakes as it's much easier to shape the holes in.

Good news on the gas mate! What kunce though slugging ya that much a bottle especially when it looks like your a regular customer who does a fair bit of welding ;)

Im doing some pipework on my dads GTR tomorrow so hopefully I can get some pics up afterwards :)

Thanks for the heads up guys, I went down to Supergas for a winge today and ended up speaking to the sales manager on the phone while at the counter. He ended up giving me a 10.5m3 refill for $125, less than half what I was paying.

I don't have pics of the damaged manifolds, one I had to repair, and one I saw on a car, the crack was definitely down in the webbing but it could have started beside the weld and cracked further away as it made it's way around the pipe. I didn't get a good look at it as it was on the car. It was probably 2mm tube so very thin and light stainless. It would glow white hot on the dyno within a second or two of hitting boost. My point was, he had a GT42 mounted without a hanger or support, and a 4 inch exhaust with no hangers till the diff. Perhaps it would have lasted longer if the manifold could move around on the head a little and the turbo was supported.

I have a couple of vices, and a set of small vice grip pointy pliers. None are big enough for 4 inch unfortunately, I need to find a larger vice or find another way to hold larger tube.

I am making this 4 inch intake atm, for a GTX35 in a 33. The VQ afm should be good for over 450wkw resolution in 4 inch tube by my calculations. To be tuned with a PFC. :)

post-63525-0-42753000-1379429933_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-89247800-1379429990_thumb.jpg

The reason thin walled china manifolds crack is due to expansion, they would crack just as easily if purged imo. If the manifold flange is split and the turbo/exhaust weight is carried by a well designed bracket of some sort, the manifolds would probably last for years (on road cars at least.)

I only purge exhaust pipes when the die grinder can't get to the back of the weld, this isn't food grade exhaust I am working on, and at $300 a bottle of argon I'm not going to waste it back purging unless I need to. I have never had any dump pipes or exhaust returned from weld failure either, track cars included.

One thing i can say, I definitely prefer to weld thin wall (1mm or thinner) while back purging as I am much less likely to blow holes and can crank much more current in. No doubt it is stronger, but this isn't a structural item we are talking about. Perhaps you get better pricing on Argon through your work Mick?

My 2c ... chinese manifolds crack not due to absence of support or purging...its purely down to the fact that there isnt any penetration. I have only looked at 3-4 China manifolds but none of them had any penetration. Even my old Greddy manifold only had intermittent penetration. Purging of course helps ontrol peno without cauliflower so is related.

Looks excellent! However, couldn't you have rotated the housing to avoid having that elbow?

Looks excellent! However, couldn't you have rotated the housing to avoid having that elbow?

Thanks. There was a reason i did it like that an I can't remember why haha, possibly due tithe size of the housing and manifold position it may have hit ac lines and compressor or pwr steering lines not sure it was a while ago. It was just easier to do that, plenty of big turbos are positioned the same. And since I was doing it in lobster back why not show off the stainless work. Edited by r32gtrs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.
    • Has anyone used > https://performancecoating.com.au/  
    • Haha actually I did join back then under a different email address,  I couldn't re-activate my account so made a new one! I didn't post much anyway so not missing out on much. Amazing to see how the value of the cars and parts has changed over the years, also ACT section appears to be dead now. 
    • Thanks... It's in pretty good condition overall, probably due to not being drifted/tuned however being a daily driver has taken its toll. Had 100k on the clock when I got it, up to 180k now. Unfortunately it's not 100% dent free, it's got a small dent on FLH side and broken indicator from where I hit a small kangaroo at high speed. If you look at closely at pic #5 you might spot the dodgy trailer light repair my old man and I rigged up as temporary repair! - It's still there due to a combo of needing the car as daily driver and then too lazy/busy to fix properly. I've a couple of other minor accidents accidents as well but nothing major. One required a new front bar and unfortunately the smash repairer ordered the normal gtst one and not the aero bar. Needed the car back asap so just went with it, regretted ever since.
    • I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.  
×
×
  • Create New...