Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the car in the link is the M-spec with some Nismo options such as wheels, wing etc, and similar money to Vspec in Japan

we definitely wont be seeing that, the GTR already costs 180k, there is no market here for a 300K model

this is the model we will be seeing next year

http://www.gtrblog.com/2010/10/12/nissan-s...at-nurburgring/

extra power is cool, and a given with any facelift

not feeling the leds but understand their required in alot of countries now - seems every ricer with an ebay account has the led strips on their cars these days

wheels look good in some pics, others they look a little small and wussy

but i am ordering those new hvac knobs, the only thing imo that lets the interior quality feel down

all the aero upgrades etc doesnt mean much to me since i daily drive this car

Edited by domino_z
Anyone know when the new model is landing here?

Jan 2011 production, in our showrooms March 2011 (as confirmed by the dealer. Embargo on the "new" GT-R news will be officially lifted on Monday 18 October- two more sleeps...

SAU front page claims a 7:20 lap but this site says 7:24 ??

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%BCrburgring_lap_times

either way amazing, but 7:20 would be astronomical!

Any guess on how much the 2011 models would cost? Would it be good for second hand values if the price went up say close to 200K?

the car in the link is the M-spec with some Nismo options such as wheels, wing etc, and similar money to Vspec in Japan

we definitely wont be seeing that, the GTR already costs 180k, there is no market here for a 300K model

this is the model we will be seeing next year

http://www.gtrblog.com/2010/10/12/nissan-s...at-nurburgring/

extra power is cool, and a given with any facelift

not feeling the leds but understand their required in alot of countries now - seems every ricer with an ebay account has the led strips on their cars these days

wheels look good in some pics, others they look a little small and wussy

but i am ordering those new hvac knobs, the only thing imo that lets the interior quality feel down

all the aero upgrades etc doesnt mean much to me since i daily drive this car

i wonder what sort of price the 2010 model will come down too when the 2011 model comes out...

Edited by bradley
i wonder what sort of price the 2010 model will come down too when the 2011 model comes out...

not really fussed about the new model causing the current model to lose value

its a given and happens with every car

if you buy new you have to concede you lost the gst and stamps the second it rolled out of the showroom

the only real visual difference out on the road imo will be the wheels, and im weeks away from having those changed anyway

for those who track, they'll appreciate the aero and chassis stiffness upgrades

Edited by domino_z
SAU front page claims a 7:20 lap but this site says 7:24 ??

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%BCrburgring_lap_times

either way amazing, but 7:20 would be astronomical!

7:20 rumor was started but was found to be based on the GT-R website being mistranslated. It was actually saying "in the 7:20's" as in 7:20.00 to 7:29.99

Later the wet track laptime was found to be 7:24 with no dry track time being published yet.

Any guess on how much the 2011 models would cost? Would it be good for second hand values if the price went up say close to 200K?

If you refer to carsales you can see car advertised for 129K that hasn'tsold for 2 months now, and others for 139K are also just sitting there for a long time, lets not even talk about others in the 150's - they have been there for 3-4-6months and clearly owners are not interested in selling - lets say DBA costs 200K on the road - do you really think this will help move these used CBA's?

Price in Japan has gone up by $2,000 for our premium model - so I would be very surprised if price here raises by $20,000. What's a driveaway price now for CBA's - 178-180-182K - I'd guess DBA will probably cost the same, considering strong AUD, if not less.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...