Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, as the topic says,

tacho seems to work fine until I put my foot down and as soon as it hits boost and the revs go nuts, the tacho needle just flaps around, doesn't follow the engine revs??

was working fine before, but just picked it up today after a tune ( now 710 awhp ,, comes on really hard ) is there any reason why the tacho might not keep up with engine revs?

I can sit there and rev in neutral and is fine needle behaves normal it only happens under boost...

car runs a motec pigggy back and a Blitz standard Gtr computer .

its a pain not knowing where the red line is..

any ideas guys ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340649-tacho-not-playing-ball/
Share on other sites

I would say dry connection in the cluster itself or bad earth. Try smack the top of the dash as your cruising and see if it jumps?

If so that would mean its got the problem I said above. Otherwise try to narrow down what comes between the dash and the signal source.

the sheet is up in the dyno results, posted it yesterday..

and I just looked its a Blitz Access Controler, looks like the standard ecu but badged with that..

the Motec M800 just does injectors, timing etc basically all the engine management and the Blitz there for Attessa etc I think..

just checked the tacho wire at the Blitz, it looks ok but has another wire taped into it ?? I'm assuming that goes to the motec for something, and maybe getting some interference from there ??

tacho only goes on the blink under boost

thoughts.....

problem fixed :)

the motec doesn't need a separate tacho feed and was disabled in the motec so cut the wire that was tapped into the tacho wire and all is good..don't know it just started playing up now as nowthing had changed there, but anyway fixed

for any others wondering why i asked about the RSM i have this issue in my ECR33

powerfc with Apexi RSM. when i go past 5000rpm the RPM needle goes spastic, HICAS flashes and car continues to run fine

under 5000rpm is OK and no issues, go over 5000rpm it goes spazzo. the RSM has a RevO setting and a RevW which is rev output and rev warning

the rev output is used to flick a relay, ie a shift light. but its not wired up in my car, but the feature is always on.

for some reason on my car when RevO is reached the needle and HICAS goes spazzo

the fix for my car was to set the RevO to 10,000rpm so i never reach it. very odd bug and dont know why it occurs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...