Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Just purchased a GTR R33. I was giving it some stick the other day and it backfired and after that it wouldn't idle good, I could not really drive it to move it off the road because it didn't have any power, anyway, I have checked coil packs, spark igniter, AFM's, plugs and still can't find the problem. My next thoughts are, could the timing belt have skipped a tooth, it runs like it is running on 3 or 4 cylinders, while the car is idling, I unpluged coil packs one at a time and found that the front cylinders aren't burning fuel (no difference in idle), it idles with plenty of black smoke (rich) coming from the exhaust and the front cylinders are wet. Has anyone witnessed this or has someone had a car that skipped a tooth on the timing belt? Also, does the RB26 bend valves when timing goes out via a skipped tooth? I have done a compression test on each cylinder with the results of every cylinder being the same PSI whilst cold, it also holds the compression. The cars timing belt was changed at 70,000, it has now got 120,000, it seems legit since I received log books with the car and everything matches.

Any advice would be greatful.

Denis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340719-r33-gtr-running-rough-and-rich/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Sounds like a a cooler pipe off has blown off

Well guess what? you were right! took it to Advan Performance Centre in Auburn, they found it straight away, however, all of last week it was at Castle Hill Exhaust/Performance where I had my VE SS worked (332rwkw) on (spent $12,000 on it through them, now sold), it looks like Skylines are beyond them, they had it for 5 days and could not work it out, I even told them to check the cooler pipes, they told me it would'nt be that, plus they left me with a nice dent in the passenger door, "thanks Dave, your an ass", anyway, I want to give the boys at Advan Performance Centre a big thanks, and to Dave at Castle Hill Performance a F$%kyou, all you did is screw me around the whole of last week, telling me you can't find the problem, you don't have time, you are busy, all I can say is, you don't give a shit about existing customers and a nice way to do business, you wont be seeing me again,

Denis

(silver VE SSV with black track stripes)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...