Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day

Just wondering if many people have had issues with frying igniters when using Vipec? Might not be a related problem but there's two I know of now and I'm trying to get a feel for whether this is common.

Not trying to criticise the Vipec, I'm very happy with mine.

I know igniters die from heat and age but I'm interested to see if there's a few dying when a Vipec is involved.

Related thread here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rs-t340484.html

Thanks

Edited by Scooby
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340779-vipec-and-frying-igniters/
Share on other sites

my old tuner killed my ignitor when we put a vi-pec v44, ran for a little bit then died, this was on my old s13 sr20det.

put in a microtech x4 ignitor and not sure if he changed any settings but it has run ever since, he tried to blame the heat and its age etc but i really dont believe it, was too coincidental.

I'm running a v44, haven't driven the car much since installation though due to boost issues. I've resolved those as of yesterday (touches wood) so I'll be driving it a lot more soon, will find out if I join the fried igniter club.

Dave do you think dwell would specifically kill the earth circuit in the igniter? BoostdBarge pulled his apart and in each case the earth circuit had gone. Soldered it up and all's been good for a long while.

I guess the earth circuit works harder than the rest as it's loaded 6:1 every time a cylinder fires and with wasted spark it's even worse. So with excessive dwell it'd be under signficant load.

DVS32R what circumstances did yours die under ie cruise, idle, boost etc?

I don't expect there's going to be a mass of people with this issue, but a few is enough to suggest more than a coincidence.

Edited by Scooby

Ditch your coils and ignitors and run LS1 coils.

This issue has been found on other skyline forums as well, the stock ignitor will need to tuned wit dewell time before you can get more use out of them but they apparently still die even when you get the settings right.

also remember this is a wasted spark system. the coils / ignitor is running harder then it would in a common standard ECU situation that has direct fire for all coils at once.

Extra fire from wasted spark = extra heat = extra problems with weak earthsinside the ignitor, im sure nissan did not design everything to run a 200% speed so old age and turning up the ante with wasted spark explains why.

LS1 or LS2 coils are the go.

I seen standard coils run fine up to 400hp at wheels, i upgraded to the vipec and found lots of problems with spark blowing out no matter what i did.

Replaced coils with LS1's and problem was solved.

if you wired in a v88 im sure this problem will be seen rarely.

As mentioned, I have fried a few of these. Even a brand new one from Nissan ($750 worth!)... I've reduced the dwell, put in Splitfire coil packs and soldered the burnt out ground and haven't had a problem for a year now. Anyone know of any other wasted-spark setups that are burning out ignitors?

Pics of the inners of the ignitor and the fix here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...67#entry4875367

Ok spoke to Ray Hall, extremely helpful as usual. Emailed him the map and he was on the phone 10 mins later, confirmed the dwell is fine, if anything a touch on the conservative side.

Asked about the V88 and he said it would allow more dwell but he doesn't believe the V44 is the cause in any case so nothing to be gained by switching to V88 his view.

He suggested it's most likely either a voltage spike, in which case the ecu would probably have been fried, or a poor earth, and to call Mark at Godzilla motorsport. Again, Mark was really helpful. He also suggested a poor earth.

there is nothing wrong with the vipec, its just my guess that the default dwell setting is to long, more dwell = more spark but hotter running. less dwell gives a weaker spark but nicer on the drivers.

i burnt out 2x bosch 008 igniters with my old autronic before i worked it out..

im fairly sure stock dwell time is around 2ms most people run up to 3.5ms without dramas.

Mine was a bit over 2ms. We reduced it to around 1.7 I think. It still fried after that, so it doesn't seem to be dwell that's the problem. Good idea to check your ground. I measured mine and also pulled the coil pack loom apart and re-taped it. Couldn't find any issues. Very strange...

Scooby, so you're in Brissy? Me too. I could probably fix the coilpack for you if you want. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you want to do the wiring, the GTT engine ecu has the same pinouts extra that the seperate TCM in the NA car has. You can literally grab the wires/pins that lead into the Seperate TCM and wire them into the corresponding pins in the GTT Engine ECU. You could then in theory Nistune it. I realised this when everyone put it in the too hard basket and I actually looked at the f**kin R34 manual. This is after I had previously had a seperate aftermarket TCM controller in my original N/A chassis car and a very built gearbox from a GTT, running a seperate Haltech engine ECU. I ran into this issue when I re-shelled the car into a GTT shell, so my aftermarket TCM was no longer plug and play, because the loom/modules were not present. I was pretty livid when realizing just how simple the original fix actually was. It sat for 3+ years at various workshops trying to find a solution. In practice none of this is a worthwhile idea for a lot of reasons, generally surrounding the shitness of the NA auto, the autos in general that come with skylines, and the NA engine and lack of gains. The gearbox is specced for the 2.5L N/A and barely at that level. If you have to pay anyone any money to do any of this, that is money spent on manualizing the car and it's not even close in terms of a comparison. Learning to drive manual is simpler than going through the pain of dealing with the N/A gearbox and he'll have fun to boot.
    • Semi-correction to my blanket statement that you can't bend rubber hoses. It seems that you can get most of a result, by doing as this guy does. I wouldn't promise that the bends will stay in the hose forever. I think if I found they wouldn't stay, I'd get a larger hose and cut some 90掳s out to go over the bends I wanted to be in the smaller hose, as a reinforcement.
    • Just a heads up. Mine has just failed. When i turn the car on it just reboots everytime then the word "Android" shows up then goes to a black screen. I've aksed the company i got it from for some help but it's passed their 90 day return so they wont help. I have to swap back to my old system this weekend 馃槶
    • Does the car have to stay auto? If so, you might be looking at a ZF swap in future. 
  • Create New...