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Unfortunately im selling my 31.. which was originally comprised of 3 different skylines, and i had the best put together. This car is unbelievably reliabe. Good power, the only things i was going to do was put a 33box in with a kaaz 2-way to back it up. Most mechanical work was done by myself. Everything in the car is neat and works. The previous owner has painted it white, in 2pac i think. few chips and stuff. ALL strait panels. Goes hard, sounds good.

Engine - RB30T series 2 non turbo block

Stainless highmount manifold with 44mm tial copy gate and china t3/t4 turbo no shaft play at all. the gate is plumbed back but the custom exhaust allows you to take the plumbing out with much ease to make a screamer. Braided lines

Standard turbo injectors

Standard turbo ECU

Intercooler (unknown brand)

full custom piping for ic/exhaust 3 inch

China oil cooler/relocator with dash 10 lines, 10 bar cooler

Suspension/Brakes

S13 Silk road coil overs, height/springrate/damper/camber adjustable

Whiteline heavy 20 and 28mm swaybars

R33 GTR front rotors and calipers

standard r31 rear brakes, rebuilt, new pads, rubbers washers etc etc

S13 Lower control arms

S13 knuckles and 5 stud hub conversion (JJR). Engineered 28spline 5 stud rear axles

18inch alloy wheels all round, (te37 copies, 20mm spacers on rear) all with very good rubber. Mechellin pilot sport 3's on front 225/40/18

Standard 31 box, heavy clutch

interior is all good. Everything is in good nick. bucket seat with dished steering wheel

Stereo

Sony head-deck 50x4 watts

Cerwin Vega splits in front

Blaupunkt 6x9's

4 channel boss amp BA1000

2 x 12inch 400wrms pioneer subs in sealed box

Also comes with sale, depending on offers.. i have the following extras

6 x 550cc injectors on billet fuel rail

Racing fixed back seat on 31 rails ready to bolt in

4point willans harness

im not interesed in seperating anything as id like to get rid of everything at once, or use as a seal the dealer. But make offers just incase :D

$6000 ONO or swaps for r32 or s13

have a hyundai excel up for sale/swap that could be included - http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=614950

msg or call anytime :banana:

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    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
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