Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, there seems to be lots of confusing information out there about the GTT. I would like to know if anyone has some first hand experiance of what sort of boost levels can be run on the std head gasket on the ER34 GTT??

I will obviously be upgrading my Tubby, Injectors, fuel pump etc.

Thanks

Nigel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34085-r34-gtt-boost-levels/
Share on other sites

1 bar i think with FMIC, recommmended 0.9 bar

Yeh. 1 bar with FMIC maybe a bit more if car is not for track use. ie fang it once in awhile as a daily driver but thats with the standard turbo. I regards with how much boost the standard head gasket can take, i'm currently running 1.5 bar as a daily driver with no problems yet. This is not reconmended if you are planning to do track work hehehe..

Yeh. 1 bar with FMIC maybe a bit more if car is not for track use. ie fang it once in awhile as a daily driver but thats with the standard turbo.  I regards with how much boost the standard head gasket can take, i'm currently running 1.5 bar as a daily driver with no problems yet.  This is not reconmended if you are planning to do track work hehehe..

I have a FMIC, GT2835, fuelling, power FC etc, but there is very little info ocer here about tuning the GTT. plenty about the R33 though.

So I guess the GTT has a stronger head gasket than the 33 :wassup:

Thanks Guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...