Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a few parts left from a 34gtt i have recently stripped,

may consider swaps i need some stuff for my s13 (rb25 gearbox, clutch fan etc)

prices are negotiable but no stupid offers.

-neo engine cover (pics available we all know what it looks like) $10

-small carbon canister (has a couple vacum lines going into it i assume its a carbon canister) $10

-r34gtt drivers and passenger rear quarter panels, (both have been cut off of a damaged car. there is plenty of steel left on them around the panel joins. any beater should be able to unstitch to attach to a damaged car) $100 each

-r34 rb25 air con compressor and tensioner pulley (unchecked ive never used it, looks fine?) $50

-r34 gtt 2 1/2 inch exhaust, caqt back, includes nismo muffler with a electronic silencer valve (have pics) $50

- r34 gtt drivers a pillar trim good condition, few scratches near where it meets the glass good if yours has holes drilled in it $10

-r34 gtt drivers and passenger rear trims one has a coupke of small marks in the plastic $ 20 each

-r34 gtt hicas rack, removed for fitting lock bar $50

- r32 gtst hicas rack and some lines removed same reason as abouve $ 50

-r34 gtt fuel tank its useless to me $20 without pump or $50 with pump

-r34 gtt parcel sheft, has child safety restraint holes drilled in speaker grills $10

-r34 gtt tripple gauge cluster, the one that sits abouve the centre of teh dash, average condition could use a clean. no gauges $10

-r34 gtt child safety mount braces left and right $10 pair perfect for compliance

-r34 gtt rear window wiper motor $ 10

-r34 gtt steering column, with key, key seems stuck in barrell, $20

-r34 gtt wiper stalksand brackets that bolt to the steering colum $ 20

-r34 gtt drivers floor kick panel witha little peep hole thing (fuses?) $10

-r34 gtt bonnet cable $10

-r34 gtt fuel cap and boot opening cable $10

-r33 standard alloy wheels, good tyres, easily legal tread on all 4 $200 ono

thats all i can think off of the top of my head prices are negotiable within reason of course

will post some items pickup preffered from the barossa valley in south australia.

cheers jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341009-r34-gtt-parts/
Share on other sites

Hey there, this might seem like a weird thing to be after but i cant track one down anywhere, i need the right reverse light lens, you know the ones on either side of the number plates, i bought the car with it missing and i just hate looking at it, if you have both ill buy both to make it abit more worth your time, im desperate to get one so it would be great if you have them still..

Cheers,

Elle :-)

Oh i just thought of something else, i dont know how to explain it, umm you know the lever you use to recline the seat, well the one on the drivers seat in my car is missing the plastic bit that fits over the actuall short metal bit which makes it so difficult to adjust the seat back cause you dont have the big plastic bit to just grab so you've gotta dig ya fingers down to grab the little bit of the metal, it would be awesome if you had one, sorry i know that was probably a confusing explaination of what i was tryin to say.. :-D

Edited by elle
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341009-r34-gtt-parts/#findComment-5514768
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...