Jump to content
SAU Community

Change Brake Pads On Change Of Rotors?

theponyremark
 Share

Recommended Posts

theponyremark Proficient

theponyremark

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

My stock GTT rotors have been squealing like a pig being murdered (even after machining the god damn rotors), and changing to new Bendix Ultra Premium brake pads and driving it for 500KM.

I bit the bullet and bought and bought RDA 7957S Slotted Rotors. My question is, having new rotors, would it be safe to reuse my Bendix Ultra Premiums or would I need a new set?

Joe_89 Experienced

Joe_89

Posted
Posted

Certainly wouldnt think it would be unsafe to re-use them, but maybe if you have new rotors just rub them over a bit of sandpaper on a flat surface so the faces are nice and fresh

theponyremark Proficient

theponyremark

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the advice Joe_89 and Kinks! I'll be doing this over the weekend and post the outcome :(

Equinox: The previous pads were doing the same. They were EBC Greens, the new ones should be bedded in by now, it's been 500KM. It's still squealing before and after machining rotors... I figured it were the rotors. I am not sure about anti-shims. The brake pads didn't come with anything else besides the brakes themselves. Where can I get shims from?

Edited by theponyremark
theponyremark Proficient

theponyremark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, after doing further investigation, it seems the fronts are missing the shims. Must be from the previous owner! Where can I get front shims?

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Nissan, but they are expensive. I'm not sure about the 34 sumitomo calipers, but R32/R33 sumitomo share the same shims as the 300zx. http://www.cazracing.com.au/catalog/produc...products_id=105

Just check Nissan FAST if possible to confirm the part numbers and see if they match up to: http://www.thenismoshop.com/catalog/300ZX-..._Clips_Z32.html

theponyremark Proficient

theponyremark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay all. I gt the factory shims in and the still squeal. I was told by a mechanic that modern brakes squeal like that due to their anti asbestos compound. WTF? Anyway i got some anti-squeal goop on the pads facing the rotors. Will update you all on how it turns out later tonight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Duncan
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...