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Water/Meth injection is what you need imo, you will also be able to whack a heap more timing in too.

and get the exhaust manifold ceramic coated and heat wrapped.

I dare say because you still have 10:1 comp, there will be bugger all timing advance on boost, and retarded timing means hotter EGTs (exhaust gas temps) which is causing the very hot engine bay.

With my car using a highflow I flogged the ass out of it for 40mins at wakefield and once I pulled in i could hold my hand on the hotside cooler pipes without burning myself while trying to fix an oil leak.

I can tell all this heat is coming from the molten lava that is my exhaust manifold, so:

^ you said it yourself, your manifold is going nuts. You are a pioneer my friend, noone else has a hicomp 3076R on this forum as far as I can tell.

What else can be done to keep the manifold heat away from the cooler pipes?

^ Change the exhaust housing ASAP.

Also Scott, your theory may well be correct and adding to the problem too.

^ I dont believe it is adding to the problem, I believe it IS the problem

What setup do you have? I am assuming the gate is off the housing and you are running a standard manifold.

As for the photo of the two turbos, the physical size is not necessarily an indicator of which is bigger. It could still be the same issue.

Try and find someone with a cooler the same size as you and swap the cores over for a day. It sounds like your cooler is doing its job mate. The pipe out of the turbo is HOT as you state but the pipe into the motor is 'Warm'. Thats shows your cooler IS working and you have another issue.

I had a similar issue in a turbo NXR a few years ago. I had a very restrictive exhaust on it and the turbo was being superheated. It was also superheating the oil flowing through the core and as such causing lots of issues. My cooler was also blocking the path of cool air into my engine bay which was exacerbating the issue.

I tested this by removing the cooler and running it with just a pipe on low boost. Problem was so much less yet the turbo was still getting VERY hot.

If it were me, I would replace the cooler core and move up in exhaust housing size. At a minimum I would go .82 and yes I would even consider the larger 1.06...... Whacked theory I have at present but even evos run 10.5cm exhaust housings from stock, and they are responsive as they get.

What setup do you have? I am assuming the gate is off the housing and you are running a standard manifold.

If it were me, I would replace the cooler core and move up in exhaust housing size. At a minimum I would go .82 and yes I would even consider the larger 1.06...... Whacked theory I have at present but even evos run 10.5cm exhaust housings from stock, and they are responsive as they get.

100% correct sir, attached is pics of gate setup.

interms of housings, I know that in the end that will be the best thing to solve the problems, but i dont have the cash/time for a new housing atm (taking gf overseas in 6 weeks :ermm: ) + modifying it for the gate and headf*cks + tuning + i would like to research what sort of lag i would be looking at with a larger housing.

For the time being, I am going to try to purchase a heat wrap for the manifold (which prob wont do to much), try some of the cooler tests + cleaning over my uni holidays and maybe a second hand oil cooler if one comes up cheap enough.

Thanks heaps for the help, very much appreciated and i'll keep updates with the progress

post-36975-1288340423_thumb.jpg post-36975-1288340520_thumb.jpg

+ i would like to research what sort of lag i would be looking at with a larger housing.

This may start a war, however I feel with a .82 your car will be faster AT ALL RPMs. I also feel that a 1.06 may hold benefits that the additional 'Lag' would be worthwhile.

I really want to point out that boost v RPM scale is not directly related to road speed. It is more than possible that going to the next size up housing would result in better road speed DESPITE being slower onto boost.

To put this into relevant terms, if we could clone your car and drop a .82 housing on then line them up for a 40kph roll in 2nd, the .82 would be in front the entire time. I also feel that the same scenario with a 1.06 would result in the most insignificant of delays before the benefits shine.

Not sure how you drive your car, but I also feel power delivery of the 1.06 would be superior in a fast street application (revs generally heated and 4K and up).

FYI the 1.06 theory I am speculating on is not something dyno results will tell you.. Also something that would not be relevant on the 'first punch'.

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