Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question for user/previous user of Kumho KU31 tires..

What tire width did you have, power level of your line and whether it held second gear or not?

Trying to determine whether they'll be suitable for my skyline.. i can only mount a max 235 tire on my wheels and am wondering if a 235 KU31 will hold my 2nd gear (250rwkw).

Currently using marangoni mythos and my second just kills these tires.

Cheers guys!

(I would get KU36 but australia is out of stock till new year for my size sigh).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341344-question-for-ku31-users-kumho/
Share on other sites

Just a quick question for user/previous user of Kumho KU31 tires..

What tire width did you have, power level of your line and whether it held second gear or not?

Trying to determine whether they'll be suitable for my skyline.. i can only mount a max 235 tire on my wheels and am wondering if a 235 KU31 will hold my 2nd gear (250rwkw).

Currently using marangoni mythos and my second just kills these tires.

Cheers guys!

(I would get KU36 but australia is out of stock till new year for my size sigh).

I have 240rwkw with Kumho KU31s in 265/35/18 and they hold pretty well in second gear. Need flat road to get the power down, if its super bumped it churps along as it bounces.

You need to have the front wheels pointed in a straight line though when flooring it in second gear, otherwise get ready for opposite lock time :)

Pretty sure that will happen with any tyres bar semi slicks though.......

depends on your suspension....

dont forget federal 595 rsr's

and if you are set up well enough 595'ss's might do the trick

nitto NT05's are better than KU36's and still available... allbeit more expensive

Sussy is hks springs f/r and bilstein shockies valved +25%.

I realised the wheels can just squeeze a 245 on so managed to get some 245/45/17 ku36's put on today. Need to get a proper wheel alignment with toe/camber/caster during the week.

I had a look at the Nittos but couldn't see who sold them ? And on the Nitto website it seems the nt-05 are discontinued.

o0o o0o, i will try these next, cheers.

Where do you get yours from if you don't mind ?

I'm liking the ku36s, just the short drive home and to me, they're way ahead of rt615s i've had before (albeit on a different car).

tyrepower hawthorne.... but that's vic...

fwiw, on petrol i have 285rwkw and drift spec suspension, and they hold it right up to redline

on e85 with 325rwkw i break traction, but only in the very top of second

(235/40/18)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...