Jump to content
SAU Community

Question For Ku31 Users (kumho)

Touge Kyousou
 Share

Recommended Posts

Touge Kyousou Experienced

Touge Kyousou

Posted
Posted

Just a quick question for user/previous user of Kumho KU31 tires..

What tire width did you have, power level of your line and whether it held second gear or not?

Trying to determine whether they'll be suitable for my skyline.. i can only mount a max 235 tire on my wheels and am wondering if a 235 KU31 will hold my 2nd gear (250rwkw).

Currently using marangoni mythos and my second just kills these tires.

Cheers guys!

(I would get KU36 but australia is out of stock till new year for my size sigh).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341344-question-for-ku31-users-kumho/
Share on other sites
andymoocow Grand Master

andymoocow

Posted
Posted
Just a quick question for user/previous user of Kumho KU31 tires..

What tire width did you have, power level of your line and whether it held second gear or not?

Trying to determine whether they'll be suitable for my skyline.. i can only mount a max 235 tire on my wheels and am wondering if a 235 KU31 will hold my 2nd gear (250rwkw).

Currently using marangoni mythos and my second just kills these tires.

Cheers guys!

(I would get KU36 but australia is out of stock till new year for my size sigh).

I have 240rwkw with Kumho KU31s in 265/35/18 and they hold pretty well in second gear. Need flat road to get the power down, if its super bumped it churps along as it bounces.

You need to have the front wheels pointed in a straight line though when flooring it in second gear, otherwise get ready for opposite lock time :)

Pretty sure that will happen with any tyres bar semi slicks though.......

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

depends on your suspension....

dont forget federal 595 rsr's

and if you are set up well enough 595'ss's might do the trick

nitto NT05's are better than KU36's and still available... allbeit more expensive

Touge Kyousou Experienced

Touge Kyousou

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sussy is hks springs f/r and bilstein shockies valved +25%.

I realised the wheels can just squeeze a 245 on so managed to get some 245/45/17 ku36's put on today. Need to get a proper wheel alignment with toe/camber/caster during the week.

I had a look at the Nittos but couldn't see who sold them ? And on the Nitto website it seems the nt-05 are discontinued.

Touge Kyousou Experienced

Touge Kyousou

Posted
  • Author
Posted

o0o o0o, i will try these next, cheers.

Where do you get yours from if you don't mind ?

I'm liking the ku36s, just the short drive home and to me, they're way ahead of rt615s i've had before (albeit on a different car).

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

tyrepower hawthorne.... but that's vic...

fwiw, on petrol i have 285rwkw and drift spec suspension, and they hold it right up to redline

on e85 with 325rwkw i break traction, but only in the very top of second

(235/40/18)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      NC MX5

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...