R34 Gt-t Power Cuts Off *help*

[Charlie Bun]

Hey all,

First of all, to be polite my name is Charlie.

Recently I bought a Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T. Everything is stock except I have this mushroom podfilter, catback exhaust and a turbo timer.

Sorry if i dont make sense or miss anything here because this is my first turbo car . Just got off my Ps yay

Problem:

When driving the car, it looks like it spoofs up really quick than normal and I think the previous owner might of tuned up a little.

Anyways the main problem is that When I push the car hard on the first gear, it would go up to about 600rpm then the power cuts off and nothing else i can do but only to wait for it to go down then I can push again. At the second gear it would go to about 550 rpm and about 500 and so on.

I went to one of the mechanic (Dont know if hes a real pro or not) and he said it is not the rev limiter and he explained that all stock GTT has the rev limiter at 700 rpm to all gears. He said there is something wrong with it. He needs to check it properly. It could also be the wastegate also he said.

Does anyone here has the same problem or know what my problem is? How did you fix it or how can i fix it?

Kindest Regards

Charlie

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

thanks to turbos it can be a number of problems, an issue like this its best to go over everything basic to begin with.

1 check your wastegate on your turbo is opening and closing properly, do this by taking off the C clip from the rod and move the arm, make sure its operation is smooth.

2 go over your whole intercooler piping to make sure no leaks and check all the clamps are tight

3 check you have the correct spark plugs gapped correctly also

4 run some injector cleaner through your tank

5 test your coilpacks to see that they are in good working order

6 clean your AFM and check solder points inside it, and make sure the plug is in good condition

7 check the boost your running on a aftermarket boost guage, make sure your running under 10psi

8 check and reset the TPS

9 after all the above, reset ecu

you say it SPOOLS up really quickly? and that its been tuned? if its a stock ecu it cant be tuned, if its spooling up quickly you may have an exhaust leak? (someone will confirm if im correct in saying that) if its over boosting it could be your wastegate which ive noted above. but to me this sounds electronic.

[mad082]

if it's cutting out at 6000rpm (i'm assuming you mean 6000rpm and not 600rpm since it idles at higher than 600rpm) and by cutting out you mean it's sort of like the engine has just turned off and not just spluttering, then i'd say that more than likely the boost is up a bit too high. get an aftermarket boost gauge so you can see exactly what pressure it runs.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

if it's cutting out at 6000rpm (i'm assuming you mean 6000rpm and not 600rpm since it idles at higher than 600rpm) and by cutting out you mean it's sort of like the engine has just turned off and not just spluttering, then i'd say that more than likely the boost is up a bit too high. get an aftermarket boost gauge so you can see exactly what pressure it runs.

i think he means it just dies, if it was overboosting id say it would keep revving

[Supra-]

sounds abit like your getting boost cut

car doing too much boost, not enough fuel

so it cuts out

[mad082]

i think he means it just dies, if it was overboosting id say it would keep revving

possibly. depends on what sort of cut it is hitting.my 33 used to die when it hit boost cut, but then it would kick back in and keep reving.

if it is really dying until you drop the revs down a fair way then it may be an issue with the AFM dropping it into limp mode. check the ecu for fault codes might be something worth doing.

[GUN_METAL_GTR32]

i had a similar problem which has just been rectified (it might be the same as urs)

basically when i would accelerate hard (if i was just cruising it wouldnt happen but still felt a bit under powered) i would get to arounf 4500 rpm and then the car would stutter really bad or surge (very similar feeling to the traction control kicking in but alot harder)

problem was a fuel pump. just put a new one in and problem is gone.

[Charlie Bun]

Thank to all your respond, i really appreciated it.

First of all, yes mad082 im mean 6000 rpm.

I took it to the Mechanic, he checked the computer, test OK (Has been reset as well). Checked fuel crank angle sensor OK, checked in jector pulse OK, checked fuel pressure was low 40psi on full, replaced secondhand fuel pump and rechecked 50psi OK. checked boost controler OK we wll

First i thought it was a traction control as well, but this each time this happens my head almost hit the steering wheel O_o. Pull the car so hard.

I paid $145 for the second hand puel pump and $70 for labour. I still have the problem.

@Clutch those steps are reasonable. Ill double check with those when i have time. On top of that i asked a guy who used to have R34 GTT as well, he said he had the same problem and it was the spark plugs. he said go buy 6 of them from Nissan dealer and change them. That was how his GTT got fixed. I still have a high doubt that it will fix by changing those spark plugs. O_o

Kindest Regards

Charlie

Edited October 29, 2010 by Charlie Bun

[mad082]

what boost pressure are you running? i'm guessing it has something to do with it

[t_revz]

what boost pressure are you running? i'm guessing it has something to do with it

^^ +1 sounds like it.

boost controller might not be getting full air presure thus raising boost...

[Charlie Bun]

what boost pressure are you running? i'm guessing it has something to do with it

How can i check? Sorry i am so noob.

But I dont think it is the problem though. As the mechanic said that is has nothing to do with the boost controller.

As i stated earlier today, a dude told me to change spark plugs. Can anyone onfirm with that? because i dont want to pay for nothing again

$30 each one of them and plus the labour.

So what do u guys reckon?

[t_revz]

you need a boost gauge hooked up to see exactly what pressure its running. dont rely on gauge on dash.

expensive isnt always better. ngk bcpr6es from memory and only couple bucks each

[Charlie Bun]

you need a boost gauge hooked up to see exactly what pressure its running. dont rely on gauge on dash.

expensive isnt always better. ngk bcpr6es from memory and only couple bucks each

Well i dont know if this is what you are looking for.

This car is fully stock. Something that i know about a stock GTT is that it has not even 1 bar. More like 0.7 of a bar.

Is that what you are looking for?

I really need to meet up with one of you pros. I am so noob at car. Hence: this is my first turbo car

[mad082]

the stock boost on the rb25's is about 7psi (0.5bar).

i just read your post in the AC compressor thread where you said that it cuts out even if you just rev it on the spot in neutral. this rules out it being boost related. this puts it down to being something like the crank angle sensor or AFM or something like that. possibly even ecu related. my advice would be to get a consult cable (google ecutalk) and then you can check the ecu for fault codes (easier than doing it without a consult cable and just counting a flashing light). i'm guessing it will show some errors

[Wacky Dee]

Are you in Sydney ? Happy to let you use my consult cable to check for error codes. I reckon it's a faulty AFM or the AFM soldering.

If you have an aftermarket blow off valve, get rid of it and put the factory one back on. New spark plugs are only about $20 for 6.

[Charlie Bun]

Once again, thank for the replies. Well the ECU was reset and all error codes had been cleared. The crank angle sensor was checked and it was OK.

Dont know anything about AFM (what is it?) Good for me to know now than later.

Unfortunately i live in Melbourne. , thanks for the offer though. Really appreciated that.

Where can i get those cheap spark plugs based for Nissan Skyline?

The guy told me, he sells spark plugs as well and for $5 each, but those are the shit one. He told me to get them from the Nissan dealer where it actually designs for Skyline. No need to adjust or anything, where other spark plugs i need to adjust to fix into my car. Any other opinion?

So far you guys are really helpful, even though i havent check all those poissbilty issue points and i would like to see more coming The more, the better

Regards

Charlie

[maddowse]

might be a stupid question mate but is this happening in the wet or do you have balled tyres ?? did you know these have a traction controll that cuts all power to the coils when your wheels slip ??

underneath your steering wheel on your left there is a switch press that then go for a drive !!, i thort the same with my car it was just the tc cutting in (annoying realy )

[maddowse]

Were I'm melb are u ? I'll be happy to bring my car around and swap the afm to test if that fixes ur problem .

[Charlie Bun]

Well maddows you are right about the traction control and thanks for pointing that out. BUT

But what you did not get was that Traction control isnt my real problem here. I know how traction control works and mine is set off always. I could drift or burn out fine.

Erm i live in Keysborough bro. If you live somewhere far from there, I would drive to see you instead since this is my problem. Here is my number. Ill text you my number in ur inbox. Its faster to communicate using phone

I am still waiting for more responds.

Thank guys

[maddowse]

sorry mate i wasnt trying to take the piss !! i only read the first 5 or so posts and they all seemed to be sugesting the sam stuff .