Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB20DET

rb25 s1 turbo

nistune ecu tuned by andrew at hyperdrive .... 243.7hp on 14psi

fmic

3in zaust, dumps and blast pipes ( sooo loud....sooo good )

'extreme' drift clutch

RB25 gearbox

locked diff

oil cooler and filter relocation kit

battery relocated in boot

brand new timimg belt

walbro 500hp in tank pump

5 stud conversion

R32 gtr front brakes

rack spacers

non-hicas rear end

polyeurothane subframe bushes

tanabe sustec suspension

25mm front spacers

Random 17's with fubard tyres

fixed back bucket seat

bolt in half cage

victoria deep dish wheel

boost guage

Stripped interior, although comes with all the interior, factory black in perfect condish.

its currently gtr z tune silver with white standard bumpers,

The bad -

car has minor hail damage... about 5 noticeable dents..mainly in the bonnet.. not bad at all

Need new rear window

p/s pump

and front coilovers need a rebuild

$10,000 ono also open to swaps.... pref white R33 =P

located in wa, can organise frieght

txt for pics

0430-124-417

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341538-fs-nissan-a31-cefiro/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...