Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i recently installed a set of bc racing coilovers on my v. There are a few installation queiries for any1 that has installed them. Its really To do wid the rear spring seats.

1. Firstly do the insulators/bumpstops have to be removed.?

2. Secondly to the adjustors need to be on the top spring seat or on the top like the first pic or on the bottom like the second. These pics will help explain wat im talking bout.

Any help wud b appreciated.

Thanks

post-66891-1287808059_thumb.jpg

post-66891-1287808079_thumb.jpg

Edited by CRISP 35
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Now I understand, I was sent the V35 suspension for my car. The m35 needs taller rear springs otherwise identical... :laugh:

Anyway, the adjuster hangs from the top and the thin rubber sits under the spring at the bottom.

Now I understand, I was sent the V35 suspension for my car. The m35 needs taller rear springs otherwise identical... :laugh:

Anyway, the adjuster hangs from the top and the thin rubber sits under the spring at the bottom.

K thanx so u sayin the bumpstops need to b on the top and the adjustors on the bottom. Im askin cuz my rear is not goin low as my front

Sorry ma bad i just realised wat u said. So the adjustors sit on the top like the first picture. So does the insulators get removed though? Pedders reckon they do were as the guy who installed it reckons if i remove it il get a clunk sound. The main point here which i shud have mentioned earlier is that mines installed like the 2nd picture. And i have only got over an inch drop in the rear.

Pedders? :laugh:

They should be installed like the first pic, the large bump stopper isn't needed and will stop the full travel of the spring but the lower rubber is needed under the spring to stop the noise.

The threaded adjuster sort of clips into the top.

Pedders? :D

They should be installed like the first pic, the large bump stopper isn't needed and will stop the full travel of the spring but the lower rubber is needed under the spring to stop the noise.

The threaded adjuster sort of clips into the top.

Ahh thanx mate. Yea i fully understand now. Na it was pedders that said basiclly wat ur saying. This oder guy that installed it is to full of himself to admit hes wrong and insists the adjustors will only go one way that is on the bottom. There was a large debate bout this in the g37 forum thats how i was able to grab both those pictures.

Steve, you got it sorted with the coilovers, or do you still have to go back to that guy?

Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

Ok, that's not good at all. Let us know how it goes man.

We might catch up again this Friday or Saturday night.

OK, just for future reference -

The first picture is the correct install.

The adjustable spring perch (gold thing) needs to be at the top. Its designed in a way that it fits inside top mounting position perfectly, meaning you throw away the factory rubber cone.

The only reason why anybody would keep the rubber cone on the car is if they installed the springs upside down (with the adjustable perch on the bottom). In this case you need the cone to keep the spring properly in place. This is the WRONG method clearly, because it would mean you have to remove the spring to adjust the height! Crazy. Also it will prevent you from lowering the car as much as you might want to. I imagine it would also mess up the matching of adjustments between the spring height and shock height.

**Note: you must keep the other rubber mount (flat one). It goes on the bottom, between the spring and the arm.

Thanx for that brad. Yes mine was installed like the second pic and the only reason y i was able to lower it is cuz that f*****g tool took one one of the lock rings off the springs seat otherwise there is no drop. He still insists there is a fault wid the coilover yet no one else complains a lot bout bc racing.

Edited by CRISP 35
Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

I was looking into Tanabe or Tein Comfort Sports for mine. Looks like (besides your installation drama) that you're pretty happy with the ride? I might contemplate looking into these. Keep us posted on the ride if you come across any dramas.

Which Pedders did you get them installed at? Just so I know for future reference :)

He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like.

Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts.

Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable.

TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

takata_lds_ramps.jpg

He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like.

Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts.

Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable.

TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

takata_lds_ramps.jpg

Now that you mentioned the things that are essential to do this job, the guy that installed the coilovers wrong didn't have those low down slopes. Me and Steve had to hold the car up from underneath the front wheel arches so he can get his floor jack out from under the front bumper after lowering the car. :)

Edited by Victor.T
I was looking into Tanabe or Tein Comfort Sports for mine. Looks like (besides your installation drama) that you're pretty happy with the ride? I might contemplate looking into these. Keep us posted on the ride if you come across any dramas.

Which Pedders did you get them installed at? Just so I know for future reference :down:

Tanabe is guud bro. Well so is tein offcourse. The prob is tein is bit too overpriced imo. The BC BR coilovers was regarded by many as the best bang for buck coilover on g35 driver along wid stance form and function . U wont find a lot of complaints about it. Plus iv heard guud reviews bout it over here on SAU. Pedders did not install it it was a place called evoloution R in bentely. Pedders actually gave the correct info and said they have been installed upside down. Even the pedders coilovers are pretty guud.

Ride is guud i jus need a few more adjustments to make it even better will le u no if theres any dramas.

Yeah, the ramps are not essential, but are definitely very handy.

To the other bloke who is thinking about buying coilovers - I was also looking at the Tanabes, and some other brands, but settled on BC Racing. They are excellent value for money. The tanabe items at around about the same price level do not have the same level of adjustment. Also the way that you adjust the height on the fronts of similar priced items is not ideal (basically, you would be just compressing the spring.. with the BC racing coilovers you are effectively shortening the whole strut assembly, keeping the spring static).

Now that you mentioned the things that are essential to do this job, the guy that installed the coilovers wrong didn't have those low down slopes. Me and Steve had to hold the car up from underneath the front wheel arches so he can get his floor jack out from under the front bumper after lowering the car. :thumbsup:

geez you guys must be really strong? on a serious note...is this the rears only steve or the front you wanna swap unsidedown? if its the rears i can help you as itll be a 10 min job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...