Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i recently installed a set of bc racing coilovers on my v. There are a few installation queiries for any1 that has installed them. Its really To do wid the rear spring seats.

1. Firstly do the insulators/bumpstops have to be removed.?

2. Secondly to the adjustors need to be on the top spring seat or on the top like the first pic or on the bottom like the second. These pics will help explain wat im talking bout.

Any help wud b appreciated.

Thanks

post-66891-1287808059_thumb.jpg

post-66891-1287808079_thumb.jpg

Edited by CRISP 35
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Now I understand, I was sent the V35 suspension for my car. The m35 needs taller rear springs otherwise identical... :laugh:

Anyway, the adjuster hangs from the top and the thin rubber sits under the spring at the bottom.

Now I understand, I was sent the V35 suspension for my car. The m35 needs taller rear springs otherwise identical... :laugh:

Anyway, the adjuster hangs from the top and the thin rubber sits under the spring at the bottom.

K thanx so u sayin the bumpstops need to b on the top and the adjustors on the bottom. Im askin cuz my rear is not goin low as my front

Sorry ma bad i just realised wat u said. So the adjustors sit on the top like the first picture. So does the insulators get removed though? Pedders reckon they do were as the guy who installed it reckons if i remove it il get a clunk sound. The main point here which i shud have mentioned earlier is that mines installed like the 2nd picture. And i have only got over an inch drop in the rear.

Pedders? :laugh:

They should be installed like the first pic, the large bump stopper isn't needed and will stop the full travel of the spring but the lower rubber is needed under the spring to stop the noise.

The threaded adjuster sort of clips into the top.

Pedders? :D

They should be installed like the first pic, the large bump stopper isn't needed and will stop the full travel of the spring but the lower rubber is needed under the spring to stop the noise.

The threaded adjuster sort of clips into the top.

Ahh thanx mate. Yea i fully understand now. Na it was pedders that said basiclly wat ur saying. This oder guy that installed it is to full of himself to admit hes wrong and insists the adjustors will only go one way that is on the bottom. There was a large debate bout this in the g37 forum thats how i was able to grab both those pictures.

Steve, you got it sorted with the coilovers, or do you still have to go back to that guy?

Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

Ok, that's not good at all. Let us know how it goes man.

We might catch up again this Friday or Saturday night.

OK, just for future reference -

The first picture is the correct install.

The adjustable spring perch (gold thing) needs to be at the top. Its designed in a way that it fits inside top mounting position perfectly, meaning you throw away the factory rubber cone.

The only reason why anybody would keep the rubber cone on the car is if they installed the springs upside down (with the adjustable perch on the bottom). In this case you need the cone to keep the spring properly in place. This is the WRONG method clearly, because it would mean you have to remove the spring to adjust the height! Crazy. Also it will prevent you from lowering the car as much as you might want to. I imagine it would also mess up the matching of adjustments between the spring height and shock height.

**Note: you must keep the other rubber mount (flat one). It goes on the bottom, between the spring and the arm.

Thanx for that brad. Yes mine was installed like the second pic and the only reason y i was able to lower it is cuz that f*****g tool took one one of the lock rings off the springs seat otherwise there is no drop. He still insists there is a fault wid the coilover yet no one else complains a lot bout bc racing.

Edited by CRISP 35
Ahhh bro i need to tell u the story wen i c u. Basiclly i completely lost my cool today wen i took it back to his shop got in2 a big arguement. They saying the big rubber bump stop has to stay or my tyres will hit the top of my guards wen i go over a bump and cause damage to the shock and tyre. i don undastand wen i even downloaded the installation guide it says remove the bump rubber. Anyways im jus gonna get it done somewere else who nos bit more and is bit more friendly towards their customers. Ahhh we learn by our mistakes.

I was looking into Tanabe or Tein Comfort Sports for mine. Looks like (besides your installation drama) that you're pretty happy with the ride? I might contemplate looking into these. Keep us posted on the ride if you come across any dramas.

Which Pedders did you get them installed at? Just so I know for future reference :)

He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like.

Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts.

Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable.

TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

takata_lds_ramps.jpg

He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like.

Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts.

Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable.

TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

takata_lds_ramps.jpg

Now that you mentioned the things that are essential to do this job, the guy that installed the coilovers wrong didn't have those low down slopes. Me and Steve had to hold the car up from underneath the front wheel arches so he can get his floor jack out from under the front bumper after lowering the car. :)

Edited by Victor.T
I was looking into Tanabe or Tein Comfort Sports for mine. Looks like (besides your installation drama) that you're pretty happy with the ride? I might contemplate looking into these. Keep us posted on the ride if you come across any dramas.

Which Pedders did you get them installed at? Just so I know for future reference :down:

Tanabe is guud bro. Well so is tein offcourse. The prob is tein is bit too overpriced imo. The BC BR coilovers was regarded by many as the best bang for buck coilover on g35 driver along wid stance form and function . U wont find a lot of complaints about it. Plus iv heard guud reviews bout it over here on SAU. Pedders did not install it it was a place called evoloution R in bentely. Pedders actually gave the correct info and said they have been installed upside down. Even the pedders coilovers are pretty guud.

Ride is guud i jus need a few more adjustments to make it even better will le u no if theres any dramas.

Yeah, the ramps are not essential, but are definitely very handy.

To the other bloke who is thinking about buying coilovers - I was also looking at the Tanabes, and some other brands, but settled on BC Racing. They are excellent value for money. The tanabe items at around about the same price level do not have the same level of adjustment. Also the way that you adjust the height on the fronts of similar priced items is not ideal (basically, you would be just compressing the spring.. with the BC racing coilovers you are effectively shortening the whole strut assembly, keeping the spring static).

Now that you mentioned the things that are essential to do this job, the guy that installed the coilovers wrong didn't have those low down slopes. Me and Steve had to hold the car up from underneath the front wheel arches so he can get his floor jack out from under the front bumper after lowering the car. :thumbsup:

geez you guys must be really strong? on a serious note...is this the rears only steve or the front you wanna swap unsidedown? if its the rears i can help you as itll be a 10 min job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...