Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Stu,

Deff worth doing it your self to avoid some ham-fisted incompetent mechanic doing a sub par job on your car. Your right it happens to much and if they do do a descent mechanical job, theyv'e probably left you with a few signs that they have been there in regards to your body work ect...

Drain and filler plugs for the diffs- Drains are on the bottom and stand out like dogs balls, as for the filler im pretty sure they are on the drivers sid about half way up each diff.

Transfer case - one is on the side and the other is on the back part of it as you look at it from the rear of the car. If i were you stu i'd drain the oil out of the trasfer case, then remove the pressure line coming from the pump that goes onto the back of the box, this will drain the boot compartment cansiter and give you the chance to change/flush all the fluid in the system. Once its drained connect up the line and remeber to fill the attessa reservoir in the boot. Also you will have to bleed the attessa system if you do this method. With the cars ass in the air, start car, crack nipple on trasfer case untill no bubbles just straight fluid comes out, then lock it off, move to back diff and somehow get your spanner on the nipple above the rear diff and do the same. Drop car down and check level in rear canister while the car is running.

Quantities wise I think the diffs took about 1.5L in each and transfer roughly 2.5L. You just fill it up till a bit spills out the filler plug and its sweet.

Diff Oil- Castrol SAF-XA 75W140

Transfer case- Castrol Transmax Z

Crack the filler bolts before the drain bolts to ensure you can fill them back up again :-)

Good advice dude, dont share any of your knowledge or anything...

Not necessary for a oil change, no covers need to be removed and no gaskets need to be changed.

If you want to ruin the transfer case and then pay a hefty bill for attessa repairs yes you could, if you look at a GTR box you can see the shifter assembly is above the transfer case section of the box, pour oil into here and its going into the transfer case not the gear box....

Would this one be ok for my gearbox

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-st...d=66669#details

I couldnt find any SAF-XA 75W-140 for my diffs. Do u know where i can get sum?

Would this one be ok for my gearbox

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-st...d=66669#details

I couldnt find any SAF-XA 75W-140 for my diffs. Do u know where i can get sum?

Gearbox oil will be OK. Just use another brand for the diffs if you can't find the Castrol. Nissan reccommend Hypoid gear oil GL5 85W-90 for the front diff (approx 1L) and LSD (if you have a mechanical LSD) GL-5 80W 90 for the rear diff (about 1.5L) You could use something heavier for Australian conditions or Motul if you want to splash out!

The drain plug on my diff is easy enough to find.

However I think my S2 RS4 has a reservoir to store the fluid.

Anyone know if this is a diff reservoir? The diff looks like it has a pump above it.

Reservoir0.jpg

Do you just drain it and fill the reservoir ?

Thanks

Brendan

That's the reservoir for the Attessa. the stuff on top of the diff is the attessa pump and accumulator. There is a bleed nipple above the diff and one down by the gearbox extension.

Thanks, So that reservoir is for the transfer case then ?

Yeah the diff filler is on the passenger side, half way up towards the rear of the diff.

The oil in the boot reservoir looks pretty brown and a bit low, So i'm going to replace it and the front diff as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...