Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been reading up on some of the regulations and items included as factory options can be run on the car provided they are included in the homologation documents that were submitted for the car or are included in factory option brouchers.

I have recently obtained a factory options broucher that covers R33 GTS25T Series II and GTR's.

The obvious items on your car are the side skirts and the front Nismo lip that were factory options. The GTR adjustable rear wing was also a factory option that may provide some improved aero over a stardard Series II wing at speed.

If you are interested I can scan the broucher and email it to you if you have any difficulties with CAMS or other officials.

I weighed petes car a couple of weeks back. I ran out of weights trying to substitute him.......

It wasn't overly heavy for a GTR.

I rekon neil's will come in around the 1300kg mark.

I think mine came it at around 1370 kg full of fuel at EC's weigh bridge, don't know how accurate they are though.

I have been reading up on some of the regulations and items included as factory options can be run on the car provided they are included in the homologation documents that were submitted for the car or are included in factory option brouchers.

I have recently obtained a factory options broucher that covers R33 GTS25T Series II and GTR's.

The obvious items on your car are the side skirts and the front Nismo lip that were factory options. The GTR adjustable rear wing was also a factory option that may provide some improved aero over a stardard Series II wing at speed.

If you are interested I can scan the broucher and email it to you if you have any difficulties with CAMS or other officials.

Thanks Charles that would be very cool,,,even just for the look see. Sorry mate I have no side skirts and my lip is M spec not Nismo.

I'm a firm beleiver that if a part is listed for fitment as an accessory or option by the manufacturer or it's race arm then it should be allowed to be used. Unfortunately I think CAMS see it differently.

Brad,,,I weigh 72 kilo's so please no setting up for Larger Gents and Cheryl has had no real weight reduction yet,,,she still has her intrusion bars.

Cheers

Neil.

She comes in at 1295kg with the screens fitted.

Same condition as when you dropped it off Neil.

It has a 50.52% (drivers side front biased) diagonal split with a 70kg driver ballast.

59.6% front heavy which is typical. Front being 769kg's

I've got center of gravity heights and roll couple heights for you as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...