Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

[Duncan]

OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little.

Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032

Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed

[Duncan]

2 more things I have to work out

Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow.

Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess.

Am I right to think that I need:

1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed

2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve?

3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?)

There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)?

6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum?

7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum?

8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay) 

Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again.

(And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)

[robbo_rb180]

AFM looks to be a z32
The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc
The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82

all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up.

Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram.

Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig.  I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.

[Duncan]

Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.

[No Crust Racing]

This is a real nostalgia trip for me, I mean SK Bilsteins? I ran those lol Good times. 

Good work Duncan, it's not an easy job in many respects. I'm sure the family appreciates it. 

[MBS206]

Hey Duncan, 

What ports are on the plenum itself?

The new part welded up for the AAC looks like it's a T Piece to go upto brake master, and the other side into the plenum to feed air in.

Brake master vac line on R33 from memory has a one way valve inside of it I believe (middle of pipe). I'll check mine tonight when I get home, I think that pipe is still sitting on my R33.

You're also testing my memory, but I don't believe the R33 has a cold start valve, it just has the IACV doesn't it?

That second smaller port on the IACV itself from factory, goes down and under the inlet manifold, but I can't remember what it plumbs to.

[MBS206]

I found this in another thread, now I'm second guessing myself and thinking there was a vac line from near the throttle body to up to the IACV too.

 

[MBS206]

Those injectors are 100% Nismo 555.

[GTSBoy]

Neo IACVs have water plumbed into/out of them to provide the heat to close the AAC. I am also unsure about vanilla 25s, but maybe the extra plumbing on that is water.

[MBS206]

Went digging Duncan, there's another "item" that sits down under the plenum that the second pipe from the IACV goes down to. I believe that's the one that is apart of the cold start portion, and it then comes back up under the middle of the factory top plenum.
I believe you will find it is unneeded on the forward facing plenum on Cheryl.

 

I just went digging further for some pics on the location of the one way check valve, and found something that confirms my thoughts from the first half of this point. I feel you can just block off that port that is coming down.

 

 

I can also confirm, the other line that you were thinking for vacuum that will just need a one way valve put into Cheryl is 100% correct too. The one way valve is normally screwed into the back of the factory inlet plenum.

[MBS206]

On 1/7/2025 at 6:08 PM, Duncan said:

2 more things I have to work out

Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow.

The fuel pump bracket just slides straight up. 

Below is a pic I stole off a site. But basically put hand in for fuel pump, wiggle it all about a bit while pulling up. 

[Duncan]

On 07/01/2025 at 8:35 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

...The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc....

Yeah confirmed they are Nismo 555s, found the boxes in the spares with the factory injectors in.

9 hours ago, MBS206 said:

....Brake master vac line on R33 from memory has a one way valve inside of it I believe (middle of pipe). I'll check mine tonight when I get home, I think that pipe is still sitting on my R33.

You're also testing my memory, but I don't believe the R33 has a cold start valve, it just has the IACV doesn't it?

Yeah the AAC has been relocated to allow reuse of the factory brake booster line, and yes confirmed it has a 1 way valve in it. Unfortunately the one on the car is cracked, I'll need to replace it.

Pretty sure I've got all the AAC plumbing correct in my previous post, but I am going to source some new fittings with 90o angles to help with the hose routing and also one really specific moulded shape for the AAC intake to cold start hose (will raid the back of our local repco when I get a chance and work out some combo that works)

One of the big things I learned in the GTR is you need to be able to get your hands all around the bay when something goes wrong. I've done a bunch of re-routing now and it should be much more practical now.

Also got the BOV mount re TIG-ed by the local engineering shop so that should be good to go now.

Never got to the fuel pump because of some life stuff today, but will pull it to confirm it is suitable for 300rwkw when I get a chance

[MBS206]

I'm pretty sure it has an 040 in it @Duncan

Also reading up, that turbo should top out at 250 as you first thought. It will be interesting to see how early it chokes due to the changes in the head too

[Victory]

3 hours ago, MBS206 said:

The fuel pump bracket just slides straight up. 

Below is a pic I stole off a site. But basically put hand in for fuel pump, wiggle it all about a bit while pulling up. 

All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl.

I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel.

When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be.

Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank.

My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel. 

In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank.

The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank.

When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out.

Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.

 

 

[Duncan]

well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot

The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it

I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end

All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo

[MBS206]

Glad it eventually came out Duncan!

 

I believe that might be 040. 044 is the inline pump, so has screw fittings in and out. 040 is more just drop it in fuel and the bottom is "open" (mesh) from my memory 

[GTSBoy]

Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.

[Victory]

Well done Duncan.

The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.