Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

[MBS206]

I'm sorry, but @Duncan has alluded to the solution already.
Make it look like it goes to a catch can, but vent it directly to the ground behind the rear wheels. Guy behinds problem now

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Lol... Very Honda of you.

[MBS206]

On 4/12/2024 at 10:17 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Lol... Very Honda of you.

Except Hondas normally don't need to worry about someone behind them...

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

Except Hondas normally don't need to worry about someone behind them...

The whole field will be behind them after 2 laps. Then the whacky racers oildown starts taking them out from the leader on downwards. Then Bradbury off into the sunset.

[Neil]

Well all that was an interesting read, dyno time will tell. I have some cameras including an endoscope so it will be easy to have a look on power runs. As usual I'm not chasing big power out of this new engine and if we see anything over 300 kilowatts we will be turning the boost down.  

[Neil]

More updates, turns out my neighbor was a sign maker, so I bought some carbon wrap and got him to do the door trims that were in desperate need of a re-fresh, they turned out awesome.

I made a cable for the boost controller, so I can change from low boost to high boost from the steering wheel and make it so I can remove the wheel completely. I was just going to use old school phone cable but thought the wires were too small so I found a 240volt cable in ebay. Now to search all my boxes and find the horn pad and wire up the horns which I'll need to buy.

[Duncan]

On 13/02/2023 at 5:03 PM, Neil said:

...Just as a heads up, I will die before Cheryl is sold....

So it turns out that is indeed what happened, and as Mel is not taking up racing and nor is their only child Lizzy the Great Dane, I am tidying the car up for sale.  

As far as I can tell it is pretty much ready to go to the dyno for run in and tune, but I'll update in here once I know more.

[Duncan]

So, starting with the rear brakes.

They look like standard R33 GTST, and will need new pads shortly (less than 5mm material, probably only 1 day left). The slotted discs (probably DBA) are near new at 18.01mm and the lines are braided

[Duncan]

Front brakes are G4 8 pot calipers over 330mm discs with braided lines. Everything looks good, pretty sure these are off my old 350.

Pads are brand new and judging from gold colour are Winmax which is what I also run on my race car, Neil and I both sourced brake stuff from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney who really knows his stuff

Everything has bled up nicely with all new Motul RBF600 fluid, there were 2 loose hard line connections and the calipers were new on the car so I ended up doing it 3 times but it is perfect now

[Duncan]

Clutch hydraulics are also all good, looks like a brand new slave cylinder and everything bled up well.

No idea what the actual clutch is, and I don't intend to pull the box off on the floor to find out, so unless we have trouble on the dyno or at shakedown that will remain a mystery for the new owner

[No Crust Racing]

Jesus 0_0

 

[Duncan]

yeah for sure.....remember to put your tools away at the end of each day kids! 

Actually it has been kinda nice working on the car, lots of memories of good times. I can pretty much hear him telling me off for stuff still.

[Duncan]

Next, shocks/springs/swaybars

It has Sydneykid valved Bilsteins with HKS pillow ball hats all round.

Springs are Eibach race springs on adjustable height platforms, with helper springs in the rear to stop rattling. These are 250 all around but easy to change for something else if required.

Swaybars are powdercoated blue but would be Selby's/Whiteline solid adjustables, 21mm rear and 24mm front. Bushes and links in good condition

All in good condition, no sign of leaks/damage etc

[Duncan]

Front lower control arm is standard with new ball joints, tension rod looks like JJR spherical. Front upper control arm is standard with adjustable bushes in the outside end

   

Rear arms are all nismo, surprisingly all the bushes at either end look standard but in good condition

Subframe has standard bushes with lock collars

HICAS has a lock bar with standard ball joints at the hub end

[Duncan]

A few other things to round out the chassis mechanical checks.

Diff is nice and full of new oil, pretty sure it is Castrol VMX (I run the same on Award's recommendation). I didn't pull the cover to check, but I'm 90% sure the diff centre is a nismo mechanical (old school, not the gt pro).

Gearbox is also nice and full of fresh oil, not sure what it is but not redline.

Tailshaft bearing looks OK and a tailshaft loop is in place

[fatz]

How much ya asking drunkan 

[Duncan]

Did a coolant pressure test overnight and it was back at 0 by morning....after some stuffing around I worked out it was the water return fitting at the turbo that was leaking, it all held pressure correctly once that was nipped up.

No brand mark on the radiator but I'd bet it is a 40mm cooling pro, with standard clutch and fan

I do need to remember to change the water out for coolant once the engine is run in but otherwise cooling looks all good.

[Duncan]

2 minutes ago, fatz said:

How much ya asking drunkan 

I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.

[Duncan]

Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body.

Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right.

Everything else up to the throttle body was good.

Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)

[Duncan]

Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt.

BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF....

Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition.

I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine