Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

[Duncan]

From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up

Which, is not what happened.

1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own

2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted.

3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper)

4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump.

5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue.

Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.

[MBS206]

Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes?

I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.

[Duncan]

lol yeah I'll check that, reminds me of the LDV thread!  I don't think that is the problem here, the starter doesn't even solenoid click.

I did do a super quick test by removing the starter motor's power cable from the engine bay fuse box and the battery voltage was still 10v, so something super fishy is going on.

BTW here is a R33 fuse box table I threw together from a few sources....use at own risk!

R33 Fuse Box and Sources.xlsx

[MBS206]

Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove).

Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start?

This might work for the fuel pump too... 😛

Edited Monday at 09:10 AM by MBS206

[Duncan]

haha funny enough I did ask him wtf he had been up to with the electrics....but no answer

[The Bogan]

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

haha funny enough I did ask him wtf he had been up to with the electrics....but no answer

I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing

That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes

[MBS206]

6 hours ago, The Bogan said:

I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing

That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes

He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛

 

[Duncan]

Nah he was mega organised, the sort of guy that put (almost) every tool back every day, it made trying to work out where things were up to possible. 

My shed needs a swedish death clean, I would have >20 part done jobs, its particularly hard to collect all required parts for a job ahead of time when you can't just pop into a shop and grab things