Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Hi Geoff,

Which would spool better on a 2.8 (full Tomei 2.734 engine) relating to the EFR8374

1/ TS T4 0.92 IWG with TS T4 manifold or

2/ SS T3 0.83 IWG with TS T3 manifold

Presently have Garrett 5s and 9.0:1 compression 260/10.25 procams that runs sweet no surge shuffle what so ever and is quite responsive, just chasing more of it haaa need it more to the left, higher and flatter ! Only have high octane and no syrup where I live.

There are not to many graphs around and the ones I have seen do not seem to come on boost any better than my current setup.

Been through this blog a few times and seen the blue R34 gtr on your website that would be close to mine but you are not showing a decent graph.

I hear though that the transient response is real good.

I use my car mainly on the street and winding hills where I live so enjoy good response and also take it to Suzuka around 3 times a year.

post-113003-0-58935800-1399687456_thumb.jpg

Overrated mate save your money. Your response looks better than an 8374 for sure.

I have never seen a convincing dyno chart for and rb26 or 28 yet even though these things have been out forever.

Will be interesting to see piggazis and Harrisracings when they eventually post a chart.

The thing is efr's on the dyno don't show up there driving experience. Throttle response is night and day different, power before the spool zone is very different, part throttle boost is again much better. You have to drive an EFR equipped car to understand. They just want to spool all the time. I can get 5psi on my little 2ltr WRX at idle just by retarding the timing from 15 to 5 degrees. In the same vein there is a reason why a heap of OEM cars have a low rotational mass ceramic turbine, also why a lot of new OEM cars now use Borg Warner technology, A45 AMG for instance.

http://youtu.be/d16w0PjkEYk

Edited by BoostdR

Hi Geoff,

Which would spool better on a 2.8 (full Tomei 2.734 engine) relating to the EFR8374

1/ TS T4 0.92 IWG with TS T4 manifold or

2/ SS T3 0.83 IWG with TS T3 manifold

Presently have Garrett 5s and 9.0:1 compression 260/10.25 procams that runs sweet no surge shuffle what so ever and is quite responsive, just chasing more of it haaa need it more to the left, higher and flatter ! Only have high octane and no syrup where I live.

There are not to many graphs around and the ones I have seen do not seem to come on boost any better than my current setup.

Been through this blog a few times and seen the blue R34 gtr on your website that would be close to mine but you are not showing a decent graph.

I hear though that the transient response is real good.

I use my car mainly on the street and winding hills where I live so enjoy good response and also take it to Suzuka around 3 times a year.

if swapping only manifold and turbine housing - Twinscroll T4 will spool better when properly implemented. I am generally not a fan of SS T3 for most inline 6 applications. for a street/winding hills setup and occasional Suzuka trip the 8374 could work very well as could 9174 if you wanted a bit more top end power or bragging rights dyno sheet. Have you considered twin EFR6258? that is a great setup also, here is a recent chart from a customer build:

nissan-rb26dett-efr-twin-turbo-kit-1-con

The more I read about these EFR turbo's the more I need to have one. If they made either the 6758 or 7163 in T3 and external waste gate, I'd be upgrading my HKS GT-RS in a heart beat.

the 6758 and 7163 are both available in vband inlet, external WG config. The turbine housings are stainless steel its easy to weld a T3 flange over the Vband inlet. I posted a photo of this somewhere in this thread if you need me to dig it up. these will make a GT-RS seem like a dinosaur

The thing is efr's on the dyno don't show up there driving experience. Throttle response is night and day different, power before the spool zone is very different, part throttle boost is again much better. You have to drive an EFR equipped car to understand. They just want to spool all the time

experience driving an EFR behind-the-wheel is the only way to truly understand how everything works together. People naturally want to measure everything and compare turbos for pissing contests or advertising purposes... and when the only tool you have to do that is a steady-state WOT dyno, the good stuff can be lost. there are many things in life where a chart or an explanation over the internet can not do justice

Overrated mate save your money. Your response looks better than an 8374 for sure.

I have never seen a convincing dyno chart for and rb26 or 28 yet even though these things have been out forever.

Will be interesting to see piggazis and Harrisracings when they eventually post a chart.

it is easy to look at dyno charts, and go on forums where the dyno chart is what matters... outside of forums there is an entire world of racing that does not care about dyno charts. feel free to do some digging:

07-19-Points-Chase-Entering-MidOhio-Std.

7333.jpeg

WTAC_2013_7407-1200x800.jpg

maxresdefault.jpg

a little closer to home:

article_trp11.jpg

article_trp3.jpg

http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/06/a-skyline-gt-r-tuning-revolution/

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

Hi Geoff,

I definitely prefer the single over the double so most likely will get the 8374/0.92 IWG. Like the simplicity.

1 question Geoff, do you do a downpipe for that turbo to go to a standard position Cat ( r33 gtr) obviously using your manifold.

Do all my own installations at home but not so good at making downpipes. that would be cool if that is possible.

Cheers Mike

the 6758 and 7163 are both available in vband inlet, external WG config. The turbine housings are stainless steel its easy to weld a T3 flange over the Vband inlet. I posted a photo of this somewhere in this thread if you need me to dig it up. these will make a GT-RS seem like a dinosaur

Geoff,

Can you provide a v-band EFR turbo already modded to T3?

Which in your opinion is a better replacement for the HKS GT-RS, the 6758 or the 7163? I don't want a less responsive turbo, but the 6758 doesn't look like that much more power than the GT-RS.

Thanks

The more I read about these EFR turbo's the more I need to have one. If they made either the 6758 or 7163 in T3 and external waste gate, I'd be upgrading my HKS GT-RS in a heart beat.

Contact Nisspeed. James has made a beautiful t25 to T3 adaptor.

post-49288-14498214032547_thumb.jpg

That turbo looks like it is going to rest on the right side when the engine shifts around.

The picture makes it look like that but there is about 1.75" gap. Can get 17psi just leaning on the OEM stall convertor (c34 Stagea). Lag was obviously a concern with the heavy auto.

if swapping only manifold and turbine housing - Twinscroll T4 will spool better when properly implemented. I am generally not a fan of SS T3 for most inline 6 applications. for a street/winding hills setup and occasional Suzuka trip the 8374 could work very well as could 9174 if you wanted a bit more top end power or bragging rights dyno sheet. Have you considered twin EFR6258? that is a great setup also, here is a recent chart from a customer build:

Hi Geoff, Have you had any results with the EFR 9174 hybrids? i've read the spool performance is only 50-100rpm down on a 8374 but your compressor efficiency moves up the revs a fair bit.

also, i remember seeing spool diverter valve a while ago. is there any plans for Borg Warner to release it for the larger frame exhaust housings?

IMG_6118adj-L.jpg

IMG_6119adj-L.jpg

Edited by burn4005
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...