Jump to content
SAU Community

[Closed] Borg Warner Efr Series Turbos


Lithium

Recommended Posts

numbering system is pretty simple. 7670 is 76mm compressor 70mm turbine.
Garrets is nice enough, gt30 size with a 76mm compressor is a gt3076.
EFR 8374 is your gt3582 size turbo erf 9180 is gt4088ish sized etc

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a guy with one for sale with his 2.6 setup. 500+kW, didn't run a great time at the drags but mph was 142mph or 145 can't remember now.

And this is exactly what is wrong with most people in Sydney!

Good worried about your drag time at the uleh drags rather than drive ability on the road and track.

*puts flame suit on*

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And this is exactly what is wrong with most people in Sydney!

Good worried about your drag time at the uleh drags rather than drive ability on the road and track.

*puts flame suit on*

I know nothing about Sydney, but this is a universal trend: chasing a dyno number over all else.

2 things:

1) The 8374 is very responsive but yes it still comes on around 4k on pump which may be "laggy" for some.

2) The 7670 may be the better choice for pump powerband but I would really be scared of overspinning it. A road rage gauge may be mandatory on that setup.

I thought long and hard about the 7670. Ultimately I'm glad I went 8374 because it's still super responsive for what I'm doing with the car and I've got room to grow if I build a 3 or 3.4 later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There seems to be a few ways of looking at the power for drag against track and road.

If you do not use your car on the road it does not matter how it drives around town, rev it up and let go , so whatever makes you happy.

For me I did not mind loosing some Dyno KWs up top to have it drive the way I use my car. Probably still be OK to drag, just change gears earlier I guess :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at putting the 8374 on my built 26, what's the best way to head interms of manifolds.

Any videos of these things in action as well?

I am also on 6 boost. Lots of pictures in build thread. Raw brokerage won't work, Full-Race won't work with r32 ps and ac.

I'll get some more videos but I have some on my build thread. I need to get a driving video of the car soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So how does the 9180 compare to the GT4088 in the real world. Seeing how efficient the efrs are, how would they go on a 26

i was a fan of GT4088R back in 2003, it was a good twinscroll turbo at that time. Now its 2016, GT4088R is outdated and very old design. EFR9180 murders it. Even the journal bearing SXE turbo smokes the 4088R

The 8374 is very responsive but yes it still comes on around 4k on pump which may be "laggy" for some.

I suggest to check your IWG spring and perform a boost leak test. For an EFR8374 on RB26, boost should be well on around 3500rpm. 4000rpm is a little bit late

Looking at putting the 8374 on my built 26, what's the best way to head interms of manifolds.

Any videos of these things in action as well?

We have a couple R32 GTR in our shop right now if you need photos of anything in particular.

I was under the impression that full race was just the AC, I think i've seen their manifold on a car with 32 power steering still on it.

^^that is correct

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You need the kit turbo taipan has shown you because that manifold ia designed have side feed injectors 
    • @johnnysr22 did you end up installing the little screen thingy and did it work ?>   
    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
×
×
  • Create New...