Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nice info from the tuner. it really does look like a gun set-up.

Yeah good to see someone giving some extra information!

The power at 4000rpm is very impressive :)

I'm assuming the "old set up" is a stock 2.0L motor with a GT30ish sized turbo

The tuner posts some very nice and detailed info, that's great.

And wow, better power AND response than previous setup, agreed with SimonR32, looks like it was GT30-based. Win-win.

And it loses nothing to factory 4B11.

i want one now.

Even at 18psi it's an animal to make so much power as early as it does.

I wonder how an rb25 would go trying to spool it....

I would expect peak torque to be a little higher in the rev range but the transient area to be a little better to compensate (think linear inline 6 effect).

Now I want to see a 7064 on an SR, might just have to get one LOL

yeah I wonder how a 7670 would run at 30psi on my Jun RB27? but given how responsive the 9180 was on berrys RB30 I was thinking 8374 for me but if the 7670 can make the power I want (380-400kw atw) then why not use it? I'm still not convinced it's a genuine 600hp/400kw @ 30psi at the treads turbo though but if it is then it's bloody awesome.

Beer Baron - Depends on the dyno you're reading at the treads at, some rolling roads (ie, Dynojets) often read the same if not higher than Dynapacks... depending on the setups of course. This is ~470kw @ hubs, I'd say if this is a genuine reading, then I'd think 380-400kw on a DD should be realistic.

I can't believe how boost thirsty these things are....Hope my engines up to the task :wacko:

Its the EVO that needs that boost to make that power, though I'd still have gone the 9180 for an RB30 personally :thumbsup:

yeah I wonder how a 7670 would run at 30psi on my Jun RB27? but given how responsive the 9180 was on berrys RB30 I was thinking 8374 for me but if the 7670 can make the power I want (380-400kw atw) then why not use it? I'm still not convinced it's a genuine 600hp/400kw @ 30psi at the treads turbo though but if it is then it's bloody awesome.

My "410kw" on the same hub dyno with the same correction (SAE) went 360rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics roller...

So I would imagine the 30psi E85 run would be around the 400-420rwkw

Its the width of the compressor map that inspires me to say that more than the outright power numbers - will be interesting to see what kind of power the EFR8374 lets through when not pumping 2+bar through it.

Thanks, but I'm well aware that you've previously posted those results, not really any need for name calling, most of us are adults here.

Maybe on the dynos you use there is a 70kw difference.

  • Location:Perth.

Thanks, but I'm well aware that you've previously posted those results, not really any need for name calling, most of us are adults here.

Maybe on the dynos you use there is a 70kw difference.

  • Location:Perth.

I didn't call you a name?

The dynos I "use" is the same dyno with the same correction as the result of the Borg Warner EFR on the last page (so a viable comparison)... It's also the same dyno that STATUS (not from Perth) uses. (battery, with almost an identical set up to mine makes almost exactly the same power as mine on the STATUS dyno as mine does on the Allstar dyno)

It's also worth noting that we know the hub dyno reads higher than a roller, which is why we usually leave correction off. With correction turned off it's still 30kw difference between the hubber and the roller! The 2 runs were also on the same tank of fuel with about 50km of driving between the 2 dynos...

Also in regards to the shot at high reading dynos in Perth, good one... Original, pitty the mph does not lie!

Thanks, but I'm well aware that you've previously posted those results, not really any need for name calling, most of us are adults here.

Maybe on the dynos you use there is a 70kw difference.

  • Location:Perth.

Now you just sound incredibly ignorant.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
    • Brand was ard.   I also threw a brand new battery at it and beefed up the wire from the alternator to battery and added an extra earthing point from the battery 
    • Evening all,       I'm replacing some bolts on my RB25 with probolt Australia bolts.       Does anyone know the following, m5 m6 etc 10mm 20mm etc       Coil cover   Cam covers   Plazamaman fuel rail   Front cover (timing cover)   Etc   Any help would be awesome   Or any lists anywhere
×
×
  • Create New...