Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Boost doesnt affect Chamber pressure...eg a car making 500hp with a GT42 and one making 500hp with a gt3073 will have very similar chamber pressures, only thing that will throw it would be if you had a massive exhaust manifold restriction. eg a .63 garrett gt30 housing would be too small.

I know Scott will agree with me here, a housing on the larger side and good tuning of the off boost area will give a better/safer result than a tiny housing.

Only time will tell when it comes to whether the EFR integral gates can bypass enough air to keep exhaust mainifold pressures down to under 2:1 exhaust to intake pressure

Quick edit - I also belive that a large turbine housing will give a more progressive boost curve over a small one, even if full boost is reached a little later

Boost doesnt affect Chamber pressure...eg a car making 500hp with a GT42 and one making 500hp with a gt3073 will have very similar chamber pressures, only thing that will throw it would be if you had a massive exhaust manifold restriction. eg a .63 garrett gt30 housing would be too small.

I know Scott will agree with me here, a housing on the larger side and good tuning of the off boost area will give a better/safer result than a tiny housing.

Only time will tell when it comes to whether the EFR integral gates can bypass enough air to keep exhaust mainifold pressures down to under 2:1 exhaust to intake pressure

Quick edit - I also belive that a large turbine housing will give a more progressive boost curve over a small one, even if full boost is reached a little later

Well, pressures may not be similar with a GT42 and GT30 because of different RPM at which those hp are generated. Actually, I'd even say that hp is irrelevant, torque gives more idea about chamber pressures. In-chamber pressure dynamics is a complex subject and OT here, but note how, say, HKS GT2835 usually produce higher peak torque than GT3076, although the latter makes more power. I'm looking for the smallest turbo that gives 500hp, and provides high torque over broad range of RPM, and this is usually achieved with the smallest housing rather than larger ones.

And boost pressure definitely affects chamber pressures - it is one of the reasons why higher boost pressures result in higher torque figures and why low CR-high boost is a better combo than high CR-low boost. Pre-combustion chamber pressure roughly equals to pressure at the beginning of a compression stroke times effective CR^1.4. Since compression precess in not adiabatic, the exponent is lower. You can clearly see that even pre-combustion pressure is affected by boost pressure, peak and mean chamber pressure of course is a function of VE and a pack of other parameters, but pre-combusion pressure is one of them.

EFR wastegates, as per above manual, are engineered to be enough for bypassing up to 40% of turbine flow for T2-flanged "A" housings (55 and 58mm turbine wheels) and up to 45% of turbine flow for T3-flanged "B" housing (64, 70 and 74mm wheels). "B" housing has 36mm WG port diameter and is inclined at an optimal angle for flow - so there is plenty of wastegating, I hope they allow even lower than 2:1 TIP/IMP ratios.

I'm looking for the smallest turbo that gives 500hp, and provides high torque over broad range of RPM, and this is usually achieved with the smallest housing rather than larger ones.

I am a proponent of twin scroll housings and IMO twin scroll housings will provide the best overall torque curve where you want to run standardish rpm. They also provide a more progressive torque curve too because they make boost and torque earlier in the rpm range which is beneficial for traction deficit rwd cars.

Unfortunately the ATP adapted Garrett offerings are not native to the turbines so they may not produce the best overall performance. Adequate for 2 litre 4 cylinders but might come up a bit short on an RB25 in terms of gasflow. This is where I believe the BW EFR twin scroll turbo's will have there place.....especially considering you don't have the complexities, fitment issues and plumbing of two external gates.....and a byproduct will be less heat in the engine bay. The ex manifold design will obvious be much simpler too. Whilst the EFR turbo's might have an initially higher cost, the overall package will be much cheaper given that 2 external gates alone and associated plumbing fabrication will conservatively cost upwards of $1K - $2K. I like the robust looking bearing design of the EFR turbo's too compared to Garretts plastic cage design, especially as E85 service stations are rolled out and more boost is shovelled through the turbos.

Edited by juggernaut1

Has anyone else had a play with match bot?

The smaller turbos with small housings don't seem to work right. You end up venting over 40% of exhaust to keep boost in check which apparently is choke flow? I'd have thought these were the small 4 cylinder bolt ons but they seem to work better in twin config and for small 4's you need the .92 T/S t4 housing so not really a bolt on anymore and a big chunk of the market gone.

Insert very long post here

HP is torque with a multiplication factor.

As for low comp/high boost.

I take it you have never driven a 6.5/7:1 comp turbo car.

they are crap.

As for more boost means more torque...well yes and no.

Boost is just inlet restriction, say 1 car is running 25psi with a dead standard Rb25 and makes 500hp, then another car with the same turbo but has cams and headwork is also making 500hp but only needs 20psi to do so.

You mentioned VE and that is how efficent the engine is, the more efficient the head(s) the more power you will make (given the turbo can flow enough air in your application)

My way of thinking is, a turbo is just the air pump (sure there are good and bad ones) but its not the be all and end all of making power.

So I wouldnt be spending all my cash on just a turbo and injectors and a tune.

Find a turbo that flow the air you need and then spend some coin on the head, I give no shit that the standard head and cams in a 25 can flow 375rwkws...its pushing shit uphill to do so.

TL;DR make the engine more efficent and the power will come no matter what turbo you have.

Hey Guys,

whats peoples thoughts on this turbo; Borg Warner s366 with extended tip.

spec;

Twinscroll T4 flange V band out beveled 4.21" Full Marmon flange

.91 turbine a/r

Flows upto 80lbs/min

Supports upto 800hp

included: T4 mounting gasket and oil drain gasket

Turbine housing V band outlet can be machined down to a flat 4" upon request after purchase if desired

!CDV,HiQCWk~$(KGrHqYOKiIE0oo5(ZhSBNOLSFe36Q~~_12.JPG!By6y9G!B2k~$(KGrHqJ,!jYEw5GBR)BMBMTwnjc2G!~~_14.JPG

Looking at selling the GT35 T3 1.06 for this... whats peoples thoughts?

its going onto a RB30 Twin cam??

Edited by BMYHOE

its a track car mainly for curcuit racing but i want to do some draging as well.

the motor is dry sumped & built etc..

going to run e85 and want to rev the car to around 8000RPM would like 450RWKW any more is a bonus,..

Edited by BMYHOE

I think its not an EFR turbo, and I suspect its probably a Bulls Eye power one with that naming convention. Its probably for a different thread to be honest.

EFR9180 would be a good alternative to that, and go very well on a built RB30

I think its not an EFR turbo, and I suspect its probably a Bulls Eye power one with that naming convention. Its probably for a different thread to be honest.

EFR9180 would be a good alternative to that, and go very well on a built RB30

Your right Lithium...

i rang up GCG and got a price on the EFR9180 which wasn't to bad at all price wise.

might give them a call tomorrow and check pricing on the EFR8374 as i think this would best suit my setup..

does anyone know some running these turbos yet?

a dyno graph or something?

Thanks

Dan.

heres a pic i found of one not sure what size turbo though

3055160007_large.jpg

Edited by BMYHOE

might give them a call tomorrow and check pricing on the EFR8374 as i think this would best suit my setup..

does anyone know some running these turbos yet?

a dyno graph or something?

there's a comparison with a 3582 posted earlier in the thread.

If you are going to run an RB30 to 8000rpm then I'd recommend going a bit bigger than an 8374 - it would be ridiculously torquey on an RB30 but the EFR9180 would guarantee no restriction at the higher rpm, and it will not be laggy. Having the headroom to make near 1000hp on E85 would make an unbelieveable all arounder.

If you are going to run an RB30 to 8000rpm then I'd recommend going a bit bigger than an 8374 - it would be ridiculously torquey on an RB30 but the EFR9180 would guarantee no restriction at the higher rpm, and it will not be laggy. Having the headroom to make near 1000hp on E85 would make an unbelieveable all arounder.

I encourage the to build me a 1000hp, E85 guzzling, 8000rpm spinning, not laggy RB30 with an EFR9180.

Thanks,

Haha if I were building one it'd be going in an R33 GTR with LITH as the licence plate on it, I'd probably have won lotto, but you could get a ride if you came and visited NZ :thumbsup:

do you know what page it is cause i went through the whole thread & didnt see it...

Pump gas GT3582R .82a/r (magenta) versus EFR8374 .83a/r (green) - both T3 open housing on a K20A Honda motor running 1bar of boost - clearly doesn't need huge boost or fancy fuel to give gains, and no more lag.

163463_10150121362917527_157954962526_8231862_191976_n.jpg

Another result from someone with an Integra running a built K20A on race gas who went from a .82a/r GT3582R (around 650hp @ hubs) to an internally gated EFR8374:

JUN_B-A_POWER.jpg

JUN_boosthi.jpg

If I read it right, the owner believes that with a stiffer wastegate actuator so can holds 30psi to redline could yield some substantial gains - he is pretty confident there is a fair bit left in the turbo. Very impressive gains over the GT3582R with no more lag!

HEY LITH,

can you post this agian or pm me these pics for some reason they are not showing on my computer..

Thanks mate!

**EDIT**

just seen your post thanks lith..

Edited by BMYHOE
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • At SMSP, I mainly see Hondas, M cars, A90 Supras and of course, plenty of Evos. Have not seen a single R32 ro R34 Skyline on the night sessions that I've been to. That's really saying something.
    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
×
×
  • Create New...