Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im a bit confused.

I get some people telling me thier is no real need to fitt after market cams on a turbo engine then other say thier is.

Just wont to know would i be better off just using adj cam gears to change the power band or should i go after market cam?

power aim is no more then 200rwkw as the car is a street car and mainly enters drift and motakana so response and low/midrange touqre is what i am after.

my current modds are

RB20DET

3" split dump pipe and front pipe

3" catback exhasut

45v2 turbo at 14psi (RB25DET series 2)

last dyno run was done at 5 psi (tunner did know how to set the boost controller(a bleed type)) so power was 146rwkw.

the one thing i have noticed is that it is laggy up till 4-4.5k and then it goes. the car does need a tune but would i beinifit from a set of cams in this situation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342085-to-cam-or-not/
Share on other sites

same dillema im in, im making about 340hp now but want to bump up to the 400ish mark, getting a fresh head made up for me now, changing to forward facing plenum, swapping my cam gears into the new head and looking at some 276 (or 272 cant remember) and with a tune im hopinh to make that extra 60hp

im making about 18psi by about 4-4.5 with a tdo6 25g so your setup sounds a bit laggy?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342085-to-cam-or-not/#findComment-5519065
Share on other sites

Should have mention i live in darwin were temps are generly 33deg, but yes the car does need a tune, and it is auto.

Ive included the dyno graph in its current state (ecepet PSI was at 5-6 when this was run and i have pumped it up to 14)

post-32868-1288182185_thumb.jpg

Edited by R TUNE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342085-to-cam-or-not/#findComment-5519223
Share on other sites

Ive got Hks 272's im mine and there awsome best thing i ever did...

Mods are

KKR480 with 30mm gate

HKS 272 cams with cam gears (some china brand but they still do the job)

stock computer running 10 - 12psi

walbro fuel pump

cams definetly made this setup cracks the gate at 4500rpm, same setup on my brothers car without cams 5200rpm so they make a big difference and keeps making power all the way to 7500 and past it... (but not game enough on standard internals)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342085-to-cam-or-not/#findComment-5523379
Share on other sites

Yea i know, i think the auto and the warm weather (and tune) are to blame.

as it feels alot more responsive when the tem is around 25 deg compared to 30 deg.

Sounds like you need a FMIC and a retune.

Ive got Hks 272's im mine and there awsome best thing i ever did...

Mods are

KKR480 with 30mm gate

HKS 272 cams with cam gears (some china brand but they still do the job)

stock computer running 10 - 12psi

walbro fuel pump

cams definetly made this setup cracks the gate at 4500rpm, same setup on my brothers car without cams 5200rpm so they make a big difference and keeps making power all the way to 7500 and past it... (but not game enough on standard internals)

Get a tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342085-to-cam-or-not/#findComment-5523512
Share on other sites

bubba yes a tune is in the works i just need to get motivated, ive had my laptop hookup to it with nistune and it is running very well (safe) no detonation what so ever well thats according to the standard ecu anyway.... but it does need a tune just not badly :-p

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342085-to-cam-or-not/#findComment-5523651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can.   I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.
    • I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque  What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques 
    • I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
    • Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'
    • That too, but I think this is why she's put the work into the cam cover baffles. I mean, a catch can should only need to be a catch can, not an oil air separator also. Not to say that putting the effort into having it do a better job of oil-air sep is a waste of time, but doing the sep earlier is always going to make life better. And that should happen now anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...