Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hya,

Need some advice plz.....

I was driving on the freeway (stop start traffic)

and my car died.

Once it cooled down a little it was okay

and I managed to get going again.

It's happened a couple of times now when it's a warm

day and the car heats up, any ideas what this could be??

Is it a sensor that's cutting out once the car gets too hot?

Bloody bastard!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342210-car-troubles-help/
Share on other sites

the stock ecu will back out timing when water temp goes up but it certainly wouldnt kill the engine like you described, just a touch sluggish

when you see the issue what does the water temp guage look like on the dash and are there any red warning lights on - these would be dead obvious but just in case

any do you have nissan consult? if you could get that or borrow it you can run a diag on all the stock sensors and even see what the ECU is picking up water temp

this would tell you the sensor is toast (it could be) or out of range etc

The water temp stays midway, maybe I should get a

water temp gauge just in case......

What's a Nissan consult? :) lol

This is the Pulsar, everythings pretty much stock

but the turbo upgrade bits.....

But yeah, the car died - when I tried to restart it would

rev to 1k then just die out, even if I tried to accelerate.

I let it sit for 5 mins then she was fine again till I got home.

Thanx for the help ;)

Yea, the technical reason is that a failing fuel pump overheats when not in motion. When you rev your car, the petrol actually cools the pump. When it heats up it dies.

Thats one possibility of course, if you havent changed it for 100kkms, or have no idea when it was last changed, you may aswell do it. Get the fuel filter done while you're at it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...