Greddy Profec B Ii Or Turbosmart E-boost Street

[Astro Bear]

I've done some searching, but there is no definitive or unanimous answer.

Any recommendations or suggestions?

Car is r33 gts-t

running aftermarket intercooler

11psi

safc

3" turbo back exhaust

pod filter

Making 170, but hoping with a good tune, cam gear and more boost, to get towards 180-190.

Cheers,

[baby34]

You should hit 200rwkw with a good tuner..

Around 13~psi

[Beer Baron]

i like the profec BII. good value ebc with some nice features and when set-up properly does a decent enough job of controlling boost.

[Rolls]

I went the Eboost street and RB20 ecu + nistune, they great advantage of using the eboost street as it can control an auxillary relay to turn on in a window of revs, this way you can control the VCT which the RB20 ecu cannot.

This is assuming you want something better than an SAFC, advantage is you can use a stock looking ECU and pass all inspections but get the added advantage of an aftermarket ECU without losing the VCT.

What I would recommend anyway as the R33 computer cannot be remapped easily.

Edited October 29, 2010 by Rolls

[Duncan]

boost controllers are boost controllers....unless you are trying to bleed off heaps of boost the basic ones are fine.

but....having recently killed 3 profec Bs I will never go near them again. profec B has no fuses on unit's power supply or the solenoid power supply, and my car had a voltage issue (too high). I bet greddy saved 3c per unit cutting that corner

the turbosmart has internal fuses that would have prevented the whole control unit dying, so that is what I have swapped to for my stagea and race car. same results as far as boost controll goes, but more reliable.

[Rolls]

Fuses will only stop excess current draw from a short, voltage too high will actually lower the current being drawn so it wont blow them, they need active voltage protection for something like that and that almost always consists of a component that will get fried in the process so you still have to get a soldering iron out to fix it.

Did you open them up and see what was cooked? they should have a voltage regulator that can accept 10-24v but its possible they had a max of 15 and it killed it, how high was your voltage? If it was high enough to kill the controller you'd think it would blow all your bulbs and nuke the battery.

Edited October 29, 2010 by Rolls

[Duncan]

yeah it was high enough to kill the boost controller, radio, and powerfc. and yes i'd be happy to replace a fuse or voltage regulator rather than a whole head unit. I will open up one of them and confirm what died.

but the point stands....anything electronic should have fuse protection....the boost controller head unit is just a big electric power switch for the solenoid

[Rolls]

but fuses wont protect against that, however you should fuse all of your units externally, its only $5 for a holder some crimps and a fuse