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if you have a hand controller go setting > boost and its the number in the middle column on whatever boost setting you have selected

http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#50

Edited by JonnoHR31
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On my HKS pro S I needed to run a LOT of preload on the actuator to have it hit 'rated' pressure and actually SPOOL.

I dare say someone has fiddled with your actuator or the preload has never been set. Seriously go and adjust this and have another crack... I shortened mine until it needed some good effort to slip it over the flapper arm.

Interesting. I have virtually the same set up as you 75coupe. To make 1.2 bar with mine i need 65 and even then it spikes a little. Do you get spike?

Just for funnies i set 1.5 with 90 and made 1.51bar at 3800rpm lol.

If you add extra preload you should start your boost control settings from scratch, then dont over do it on how much boost.

Try to keep boost to its maximum points that they are at now and go for more with a touch up tune.

Maybe run it at 1 bar with the added preload to see if you can feel a difference in delivery and how well it holds boost then go from there.

would I be right in thinking that preload & good boost control is a pretty basic thing that any tuner familiar with turbos (be it on any engine type) should be quite capable of diagnosing and correcting...?

how emabarassing for them if this turns out to be the issue

Yeah, they should be able to correct it. Realistically, if you go outside now and try to move the actuator rod and find it moves quite easily... Then your preload is set wrong.

Another way to test is, bypass your boost solenoid so its running from actuator pressure ONLY and see how lazy it is... if its running sub standard boost and is very lazy, you know its wrong.

here are some photos of the settings pages on the hand controller...

They done make alot of sense to me, but the sensor chk looks like its highlighting sensor problems

post-26316-1288527626_thumb.jpg

post-26316-1288527637_thumb.jpg

post-26316-1288527648_thumb.jpg

all good here and no issues or errors

the dot sensors are actually relays, and the black dot means it is on (ie switched relay) and hollow dot means the relay is off

so in your example we can see IGN is on - yep the engine is ON

the sensor names have voltages next to them, when they go out of range or dead the sensor name becomes highlighted in black background

would I be right in thinking that preload & good boost control is a pretty basic thing that any tuner familiar with turbos (be it on any engine type) should be quite capable of diagnosing and correcting...?

how emabarassing for them if this turns out to be the issue

its not the only issue mate.

see my post earlier, there is more to your result than poor boost control as the first 'dip' in the graph doesn't appear to be boost related at all.

its either tune, or a part issue.. but id say tune at this stage.

IMO its pretty poor to see a workshop sending a car home like that.

its not the only issue mate.

see my post earlier, there is more to your result than poor boost control as the first 'dip' in the graph doesn't appear to be boost related at all.

its either tune, or a part issue.. but id say tune at this stage.

IMO its pretty poor to see a workshop sending a car home like that.

the power curve did look a lumpy, I expected a fairly solid curve and boost control, like I didnt use any crappy or dodgy parts...

I ask the tuner how it went he said it all fine, no problems everything worked together really well...

These guys had a heap of other cars there, 33's, rx7s, VLs, a few dedicated drag cars and were really nice to deal with, this is not what I expected at all...

oh well at least I can actually drive it to the next tuner this time I guess.

now to find another tuner though and spend more money to get a good result, Im dreading having the next tuner reply by saying 'we need to remove this, replace this, redo this then tune from scratch'.... awesome.

thanks for all the advice guys its reallt appreciated...

problem often is though, the car is faster so owners are happy.

but until you get into one that's even better tuned/setup, you dont think there is anything wrong.

I've seen some cars with all sorts of stuff in mild street cars (250rwkw or less), lumpy/crap idle, takes 4-5 cranks to start, power delivery is light switch etc. And owners say its awesome & praise 'xxxx', when in reality a car like that should be better than factory - not worse.

that's the depressing part of it all really.

your part selection is excellent and well thought out, you should be rewarded with a lighting quick setup with a huge midrange as a result. i hope you get it sorted out :P

So bit of an update, Ive finally found time ot give the tuner a call...

Basically he didnt touch preload from when Ive handed the car to him, apparantly he expected it to be setup properly, now Ive had it apart to do the HPC coat and also mod the wastegate bracket slightly so the rod is exactly straight coming out of the can, turns out the bracket on mine was different to the one that comes in the full kit. So not having preload even looked at is disappointing...

He is saying it could be exhaust restriction, well I had the cat off and I could see daylight through the baffle/filter, so Im doubting that at this stage but if I can be stuffed taking the exhaust off and going for a drive I'll check it out, wait that actually sounds like lots of fun, I'll be a funny car for like 10mins... 'hollowing out the cat is the fix for that, its illegal now why not?' not my suggestion but I'll drop the exhaust and see what happens...

or it could be the boost controller, doesnt sound like he has much confidence in the PFC boost control kit...

I thought I had come up with a pretty good combination of stuff from my research... well I could easily be wrong...

or the turbo has reached its limits, he was shocked when I said others have got 320rwkw on E85 from this turbo and 285rwkw on 98...

so my instructions were to them to fix up the boost curve and we should find the power, doesnt sound like he will do it as part of the tune that should of been done in the first place, so it looks like Im doing the testing of exhaust & preload settings and then I'll report back my findings to them...

surely any tuner would check preload... what does it come setup out of the box for them or something, No! so why not check it atleast.... hmmm I wonder if he will read this??? and yeah Im up for my money for sure... even though the injectors maxed out on me on a short squirt, 'well bigger injectors are needed', wtf...

so I have the power of not even a HKS GTRS and the boost control of a hypergear... all out of a 2835 with HKS wastegate using all brand name JDM gear everywhere, how annoying...

surely any tuner would check preload... what does it come setup out of the box for them or something, No! so why not check it atleast.... hmmm I wonder if he will read this??? and yeah Im up for my money for sure... even though the injectors maxed out on me on a short squirt, 'well bigger injectors are needed', wtf...

so I have the power of not even a HKS GTRS and the boost control of a hypergear... all out of a 2835 with HKS wastegate using all brand name JDM gear everywhere, how annoying...

Tuners are in a bit of an awkward spot sometimes. They are the last step in the process and if anything is wrong they are expected to identify it and fix it. This can be a huge task if there are lots of different models of cars coming through. Then sometimes people will get upset if the tuner touches something they werent supposed to. Its a fine line on how much troubleshooting they should do, I still think they should call you though before finishing the job. Thats why I think it is important to find a tuner that works a lot on your type of car.

Trent (Status Tuning) diagnosed so many things such as spark plugs, wastegate preload, boost controller and also was happy to drop the exhaust to see if that was restrictive. I was extremely happy with this. Although I have been to lots of other tuners who have not done this. I think this is partly due to Trent knowing these cars inside and out and also his commitment to customer service.

I was on your side until your comment of "boost control of a hypergear". I have never seen a hypergear turbo have this terrible boost control you have. As you can see even the HKS 2835 drops 2psi of boost (joeyjoey), also there was another thread about a GT3076 with large can actuator having boost control issues. So clearly spending top dollar on turbos doesnt escape you from this issue.

I dont think name calling is any way of getting people to help you, help which you clearly need.

I can imagine it would be hard to be a tuner just like its hard to do any job but if I did something in my job that my client wasnt happy with they would ask why too wouldnt they...

oh slap, hey I should of just added a smiley face it was a bit pun from other threads I read, I have no experience with hypergear and I think he does a great job...

and I do appreciate your help, its more confirmation for me tbh Im obviously able to see there is a problem, I wouldnt say 'clearly need' though.

so do you have anything constructive to add or are you just venting?

It will mainly be the preload on the gate.

Tighten it up as much as you can and give it back to him (when mine is fully tightened it holds around 19-20psi). He can than simply use the boost controller to slightly adjust the boost if needed.

Edited by PM-R33

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