Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Abandoned my brake upgrade.

Apparently, despite being told otherwise, R33 brakes do not fit all Stageas! :P

Now I need R34 brakes, but I've blown my money on R33 brakes.

Can't be f**ked anymore.

ruby, i'm assuming you are having problems with the caliper mounting bolts being different sizes? r33 is m12 and your car m14?

if that's the case, just get some sleeves machined up (pretty sure you could prob buy them already done somewhere as it's a common issue) that are 14mmOD and 12mmID to fit into your knuckle and use the m12 bolts to fit the caliper :P

all you need to do is find a metal supplier and see if you can buy some 12mm i.d. pipe with 1mm wall thickness

which will have a 14mm o.d.

also, re-bled my fronts, pretty happy with the pedal

all seems good :P stops well now

ruby, i'm assuming you are having problems with the caliper mounting bolts being different sizes? r33 is m12 and your car m14?

if that's the case, just get some sleeves machined up (pretty sure you could prob buy them already done somewhere as it's a common issue) that are 14mmOD and 12mmID to fit into your knuckle and use the m12 bolts to fit the caliper :P

No. Far from it. The legs on the Sumitomo calipers are too short (in radius) meaning even dummying the calipers in place, the 297mm rotors are too large for the calipers suited to them (on the R33). I even toyed with dummying in place the 280mm rotors and the calipers still fouled on the rotors (even when I spaced out the offset).

So the R33 GTST calipers and 297mm rotors have the right offset, but totally wrong radius (by about 20mm); and

The R33 GSTS calipers and Stag 280mm rotors have the wrong offset, and still wrong radius (by about 3mm).

Something to do with the 14mm bolt pattern for the calipers being close to the centre of the hub.

:)

Sounds to me like the R33 calipers you have are actually R32 GTSt calipers.

Nope. Series 2 R33 GTST calipers and rotors. Pulled them off the vehicle myself. Sumitomo calipers are unfinned and rotors are not 280mm, so therefore definitely R33 GTST calipers and rotors.

They do not fit.

Might have found a set of R34 GTT calipers and rotors interstate ... so I'll be f**king off this useless set.

:P

Nope. Series 2 R33 GTST calipers and rotors. Pulled them off the vehicle myself. Sumitomo calipers are unfinned and rotors are not 280mm, so therefore definitely R33 GTST calipers and rotors.

They do not fit.

Might have found a set of R34 GTT calipers and rotors interstate ... so I'll be f**king off this useless set.

:)

the mounting dimensions are the same from 33 to 34 and the actual calliper is very similar (pistons and things)

all that is really different on the 34 callipers is the length of the legs, but its only longer relative to the bigger rotor

eg, 296 to 310 = 14 so the legs would be ~7mm longer

yup i'm also very confused ruby

The basics of it all is:

R33 GTST rotors and calipers are a direct bolt on for series 1 Stagea

R34 GTT rotors and calipers are a direct bolt on for series 2 Stagea

Contrary to what I was told. R33 rotors and calipers do not fit ALL stageas.

Think I'll just leave it and get the 325mm Wilwood kit after all :)

Get some neg camber on that sucker - STAT!! 4mm different offset than mine (+22) and your's is full mexican!

I fitted my bluetooth adaptor for the headunit, so now I can take and make calls without worry of getting busted on the phone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
×
×
  • Create New...