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So after having my replacement engine in for a few weeks with a hi-flow on it, it is now back to a rebuilt std turbo, (my old one) with a ceramic impeller. The difference is HUGE. The hi-flow didn't come on until 3200 rpm. It was at max boost at about 3700rpm. The newly rebuilt std turbo is on boost even lower than it was before the engine was replaced. It starts coming on a 2200 rpm and pulls hard to about 6000. The car now has a Nistune and will be tuned before the weekend. The hi-flow was not for me, that's for sure. It was slower than my wife's Maxima, until it got to about 60kph, then it was doing over 100 kph before you knew it..... crazy as far as I am concerned.

I'll post up the dyno sheet after it is done.

Should have left it on and wound the boost up John like we discussed.. laggy highflow and only running 7psi means you get all the crap lag of a big turbo and none of the fun :) it was also running the stock tune so you really can't expect much..

With VCT working my highflow is making 15psi by 3500rpm and now that I don't have a hole in my cooler pipe it pulls much harder :)

Did you put that split dump pipe on?

Edited by bubba
So after having my replacement engine in for a few weeks with a hi-flow on it, it is now back to a rebuilt std turbo, (my old one) with a ceramic impeller. The difference is HUGE. The hi-flow didn't come on until 3200 rpm. It was at max boost at about 3700rpm. The newly rebuilt std turbo is on boost even lower than it was before the engine was replaced. It starts coming on a 2200 rpm and pulls hard to about 6000. The car now has a Nistune and will be tuned before the weekend. The hi-flow was not for me, that's for sure. It was slower than my wife's Maxima, until it got to about 60kph, then it was doing over 100 kph before you knew it..... crazy as far as I am concerned.

I'll post up the dyno sheet after it is done.

What hi-flow were you using? My GCG highflow in conjunction with the Jaycar IEBC gave me 10psi by 2500 rev/min and 15psi about 3500.
What hi-flow were you using? My GCG highflow in conjunction with the Jaycar IEBC gave me 10psi by 2500 rev/min and 15psi about 3500.

Do you have a full turbo back exhaust?

Edit: oh Kiwi, yours is a 33 turbo so I'm not surprised yours is on song a little sooner than our 34 hiflows.

Edited by bubba

3 inch dump is on

can't really notice much difference tho

and even after replacing the turbo-maifold gasket there is still the whine on boost

turbo had a bit of play in it so its probably that

:P

if only a side exit pipe was road legal

Yess free-reving to red line while cold, peanut.

stock gauge doesn't move off its stop till about 60°C, motor was at about 55 according to ecutalk

and its not like i was bouncing of the limiter

and i run a group 5 synthetic which is pretty sticky even when cold

and its probably been done to everyones motor in jap land

Oh pippy

what can I say

as chris mentioned,your quite the variety of a bad nut

you could of atleast put up a vid of you launching down a quiet suburban street on the limiter with just a dumpy on...

Once you warmed it up of course!!!

it still had cold start idle lol

im still looking into why my car does that

i do a lot of short trips and even once the car warms up it holds the revs up for about 5 secs b4 letting them back down every time you start it regardless of whether or not its hot or cold

do you guys hate youtube or something? cos i swear that every time someone posts a vid up you two criticise the poster about something

do you guys hate youtube or something? cos i swear that every time someone posts a vid up you two criticise the poster about something

Sorry mate but I do believe the last clown put up a video of a stagea frying the shit out of his tyres <---- Idiot

And then you giving it stick while cold <---- Idiot

Both happened to be bannan yellow wagonws to, i can see a pattern here

Back on topic ...

Changed AFM over with a loaned AFM to try and resolve why my stag hits a 5,000rpm limiter ... misfires all over the place. But didn't eliminate the problem.

I've been going thru the elimination process with:

checked cas timing

replaced plugs and gap

replaced coilpacks

replaced air filter

replaced fuel filter

replaced O2 sensor

replaced MAF

Checked all old plugs and they were an even, nice colour. My A/F Ratio meter is telling me the mixtures are rich up top. But I've touched nothing since my last tune. Try a few more things, then I'll just throw it to the tuners. Hoping to save myself some $$$ first.

On the weekend, I'm also going to check the compression in each cylinder for the hell of it.

Not sure about the stageas, but i know the 300zx has a neutral wire to the ecu that causes the ECU to limit RPM when car is in neutral, to stop engine being overly free revved.

Might be worth checking out.

Back on topic ...

Changed AFM over with a loaned AFM to try and resolve why my stag hits a 5,000rpm limiter ... misfires all over the place. But didn't eliminate the problem.

I've been going thru the elimination process with:

checked cas timing

replaced plugs and gap

replaced coilpacks

replaced air filter

replaced fuel filter

replaced O2 sensor

replaced MAF

Checked all old plugs and they were an even, nice colour. My A/F Ratio meter is telling me the mixtures are rich up top. But I've touched nothing since my last tune. Try a few more things, then I'll just throw it to the tuners. Hoping to save myself some $$$ first.

On the weekend, I'm also going to check the compression in each cylinder for the hell of it.

Not sure about the stageas, but i know the 300zx has a neutral wire to the ecu that causes the ECU to limit RPM when car is in neutral, to stop engine being overly free revved.

Might be worth checking out.

That might be the most useful input I've had yet.

I've converted my AT Stagea to manual. Is there a chance something in the ecu is causing the misfire (limiting revs) because I fooled the ecu to thinking the car is in neutral so I can start it?

:(

EDIT: scratch that ... I've had the car on the dyno twice since the manual conversion and its definitely revved past 5,000rpm without problems before.

That might be the most useful input I've had yet.

I've converted my AT Stagea to manual. Is there a chance something in the ecu is causing the misfire (limiting revs) because I fooled the ecu to thinking the car is in neutral so I can start it?

:(

EDIT: scratch that ... I've had the car on the dyno twice since the manual conversion and its definitely revved past 5,000rpm without problems before.

Just had a look, pin 39 is the neutral pin. As i said, im not sure if the stageas do it but i know for certain that the 300zx's do.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...087-R34-ecu.pdf

ok, lol just seen your edit

Edited by kjb_r33

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