Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I drove mine today. Keep getting 13+ psi then the BOV goes. Hope to get some good brains next weekend at the cruise to sort this.

And actually the car goes great apart from this little glich.

Hey, I drove mine today. Keep getting 13+ psi then the BOV goes. Hope to get some good brains next weekend at the cruise to sort this.

And actually the car goes great apart from this little glich.

do you mean to boost up that high hugh? or is it spiking or creeping that high. i found my stock bov kept blowing open as soon as i hit about 14psi after my turbo upgrade, i don't think they are really designed to hold much more than stock pressures.

Mine copped a bit of coin leading up to the QLD meet... :banana:

Profec EBC

Dump Pipe

Front Pipe

High Flow Cat

Rear Camber Arms

Rear Toe Arms

Cooler Piping

Cold Air Induction

Rear Calipers + Pads + Rotors

Nistune Board + Partial tune

Mounted the Defi guages properly

Getting new tires this Thursday...

Best of all... I washed it :)

Almost forgot.. I picked up some Personalised Plates :P

Mowing your lawns?? :banana:

haha, let us know how you go :)

Well AEM AFR gauge is in though I haven't finished the dash mounting because barbecue and beer were calling. I'll put everyting back in tomorrow.

I had welded the boss in the exhaust just after the decat because I noticed a nicely placed grommet in the floor there which lines up under the passenger seat for the wiring to go through.

Is the Nismo ECU any good though or is it another raised rev limit, more timing and buckets more fuel? I am asking Kristian to bid on an M35 for me this week!

Apparently the Nismo ECU is a standard pre-tune program you buy from the shop....no dyno tune to you car needed.....plug and play. From memory it’s got the speed limiter lifted to 250km’s, snow is eco, better throttle response and a slight boost increase, increased rev limit + tune.

but then again all the above is not 100%....I guess I wont find out until next week......the one thing I am after is more RPM and better throttle response.

good luck finding one......a little birdie told me about this one....there as pretty hard to find......this is only the second on I have had the chance to bid on!

Can the 'tune' be extracted or do we all have to wait for the SAS guys to do their stuff? I have been reading the forums for the past couple of months and the ecu seems to be where the power is lost, so it's the place to look for some decent gains. Forgive my ignorance but what's so hard about getting the ecu re-flashed? Not that anyone in TAssie would do it but I would like to send mine off and get it done.

it's Nismo!.......will post more info when I get it!

I just cannot wait to get the Haltech off! :banana:

I have never ever seen a haltech but wonder why or how it is not working on your car. What problems are you experiencing?

The Nismo sounds like a punt. How much is sh*tloads of money?

If you have $2000 and wiring skills a proven ecu is the Link (or ViPec if you prefer) wire-in version. The 2wd manual M35 for sale on TradeMe found the Link to be the best way to provide tuning capability on the V6 engine.

I have never ever seen a haltech but wonder why or how it is not working on your car. What problems are you experiencing?

The Nismo sounds like a punt. How much is sh*tloads of money?

If you have $2000 and wiring skills a proven ecu is the Link (or ViPec if you prefer) wire-in version. The 2wd manual M35 for sale on TradeMe found the Link to be the best way to provide tuning capability on the V6 engine.

i'm pretty sure the stock ecu does all the shifting too so i dont know how much of a solution a link would be

heard a lot of ppl raving about adaptronic too

but again, what do you do for auto box control?

With a wire in Link you can pick and choose the functions you want the Link to take over (e.g. all the engine management functions) and if the auto computer is inside the stock ecu leave it there to do all the auto functions. The Link's "flat change" ability should take care of the old problem of undue shocks during gear changes.

(ps the change to a map system will get rid of problems with the stock afm)

Its all an unknown though, as nobody has done it yet. Even a simple emanage install on mine has taken over 100 power runs to get to run smoothly.

The transmission has a separate controller which communicates with the ecu to back off the accelerator and timing for gear changes, it will still shift without this communication but the box cant handle it.

Believe me, I would love to get standalone control of the engine but I don't have 5 grand to blow on unit, fitting and tune, only to find the p1ggyback does just as good a job. I believe there are at least 10 owners waiting for the reflash (myself included) due to the illegal aspect of these aftermarket ecu's.

basically what Scottynm35 said!

My reasoning for getting the Nismo btw is not because I have given up on SAS.....but is so SAS can a least get a close tune to it....all things being good with the Nismo that is.

@KiwiRST4 Haltech....don't get me started :ninja: ......let's just put it this way....I am sure for some cars they are brilliant(e.g R35 GTR)....but for ours give it a miss.

The only way to truly control this motor is through a standalone ECU or a reflash.....piggybacks will not do it....sorry most piggybacks(theres one but it's about $2K) will not do it.

p.s. A standalone will not work unless you manualise the gearbox.

Edited by Jetwreck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If there's a next time, next exit after mine is Costco 😛
    • OK. But what about parts of the block that, when assembled, were twisted into a position that pushed into the void space, which, when disassembled, then released that force and opened back up, thus putting the grout into tension? Would effectively just pull the cast iron off the grout at the interface, leaving a tiny void and benefitting not much at all. Swings, and roundabouts. It's like putting something tiny into the fleshlight and finding out you needed a smaller one, to perhaps follow your area of expertise.
    • Nah. You buy a kit that has shorter tubes.
    • I didnt present too many conclusions because I wanted your opinions and feedback based on your own experiences. I don't know the exact material, but it is similar to concrete and therfor only has valuable strength in compression. The forces on the set material once the head is removed would mostly be in compression since the grout wants to retain its shape and the block wants to return to its relaxed state since it's still within the elastic region. The grout would theoretically make the block more rigid. The exact amount would take a better setup on my end. Thought experiment: Instead of aliens, twist your favorite fleshlite. Now fill it with grout and allow it to sit for a week. Now try to twist it again. Observe what you see. Now get your other one and blow into it. Observe what you see. Now put it into a can and fill the space between your fleshlite and the can. After it sets blow into it. Less movement in torsion and less expansion i hope.   
×
×
  • Create New...