Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I now have r34 4pots :D

pulled the olive out and that was all the modification needed

still have some air in the system somewhere tho :/

anyone know if there is a bleeding process for the abs? (older abs like32 my had have bleed nipples on the actual unit)

got my Nismo ECU today!
What is it? A replacement stand alone ecu like a pfc or a standard ecu with a daughterboard and tunable chip? Straight plug in or wire in? Sounds exciting!
What is it? A replacement stand alone ecu like a pfc or a standard ecu with a daughterboard and tunable chip? Straight plug in or wire in? Sounds exciting!

Its a complete replacement, standalone ecu. Not tunable, its just a 'nismo knows best' sort of case. Should just plug straight in (Judging by the images Ive seen of it compared to the standard ecu.. its the same size/shape).

Won't it have to have a daughterboard or something in order for Nismo to tune it? There must be something along these lines or they've just put a sticker on it and it's the same tune we all have.

Won't it have to have a daughterboard or something in order for Nismo to tune it? There must be something along these lines or they've just put a sticker on it and it's the same tune we all have.

maybe the daughterboard.....but it not just re stickered .... have just taken the Haltech piggy back off and run it with both the standard ECU and Nismo ECU.....the are definitely different. Am going to get it run up on a dyno next week to show the differences with my set up......IMO I think the Nismo would be awesome with the standard turbo.....will find out later tonight how it goes with a standard turbo maybe.

That's what I thought, it has to have been modified in some way to tune it. What are your seat of the pants feelings regarding the differences? I guess it's hard to tell if there's more timing other than if it's pinging. Does having this help SAS at all? Surely they would already know how to put a daughterboard in and would know how to tune it? I can't see where the hold up is with this, can someone explain to me as I'm obviously missing something. Not having a go or anything I'm just curious where the difficuluty lies with this whole re-flash thing.

That's what I thought, it has to have been modified in some way to tune it. What are your seat of the pants feelings regarding the differences? I guess it's hard to tell if there's more timing other than if it's pinging. Does having this help SAS at all? Surely they would already know how to put a daughterboard in and would know how to tune it? I can't see where the hold up is with this, can someone explain to me as I'm obviously missing something. Not having a go or anything I'm just curious where the difficuluty lies with this whole re-flash thing.

Seat of the pant's = more progressive midrange application with boost...instead of the peaky shit, light footed response better, shift better, 6,700rpm limit. Like I said before I am thinking this will be a better unit for the stock turbo...will let you know later on tonight how it goes.

SAS will get the tune and have promised me a tune ASAP on delivery....hold up is the delivery of the programming unit.

wound up the rear left about a cm due to scrapeage of rim + coilover <_< rims are too wide... they're already sitting flush, so don't want to use spacers... may have to sell them off and get something else a half inch narrower :)

+ front window tint :laugh:

wound up the rear left about a cm due to scrapeage of rim + coilover <_< rims are too wide... they're already sitting flush, so don't want to use spacers... may have to sell them off and get something else a half inch narrower :)

+ front window tint :laugh:

what shade did you go on the window tint josh? darkest legal? just wondering how it looks against the stock rears shading.

Started fitting Series 2 R33 rotors and calipers to the Stagea today. from 16mm thick to 18mm thick and Sumitomo twin piston calipers replacing the 1 pot calipers. Used pads in it for now until I order some QFM this week. Finishing off the install and bleeding tomorrow.

Then next weekend fitting 297mm rotors and 4 piston Sumitomo calipers ... and ordering some QFM pads up front too. :)

All purchased (not inc QFM pads) for under $150 (and some labour). :D

My wife and I just bought a 2003 Mini Cooper S for her to use as a daily. That means the Stag is no longer a daily driver and I can do what I want to it. Hehehe :(

Oh, another positive... it turns out the Mini has a John Cooper Works kit which boosts power from 120 to 155kw :) Previous owner must have spent a lot of money on it. Kit includes exhaust, supercharger, cylinder head, air box, injectors and remap. Bonus for me. The down side is that I'm overseas and the wife picked it up yesterday, so I'll have to wait 2 weeks til I can drive it.

Fitted Tein master wagon rear coilovers, Apexi adjustables coilys to the front , Sorted my squealing brakes .

Took it for MOT ... and had forgotten to put the CAT back on ... Failed on emissions ... Div.

I now have the fantastic task of removing 2 snapped bolts in the cat so i can fit it again .. Great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...