Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WTF have you done Keir :) .....an R33 :) ....if you can get past the look of it there not to bad on the track......not to bad at all!

BTW.....V35 manual radiator will fit with some very minor mods......it's wider and deeper than ours but it does fit....you will have to run a trans coolers or two though.

i have that PWR trans cooler, so no problems there. I can mount it right next to the factory radiator.

whats hard about fitting it? and what mods? is a Z33 radiator the same as a V35?

i need to move on this fast as it leaks out each time i stop the car :)

  zei20l said:
i have that PWR trans cooler, so no problems there. I can mount it right next to the factory radiator.

whats hard about fitting it? and what mods? is a Z33 radiator the same as a V35?

i need to move on this fast as it leaks out each time i stop the car :unsure:

just need to cut some plastic bits for the extra width.....the base was just a matter of remounting.....you can use anything....I just used some thick plastic Zipties......looks factory.....I'll take some photo's tonight as it's still mounted to the front frame.

I don't know if the 350Z and V35 radiators are the same....me thinks no....but I could be wrong!

  Daleo said:
Is it true that the 350z or one of the v35/g35 rads is compatible, with some minor modding of the radiator support?

If so I'd be going down that route, 50mm thick 350z rad's are going for $200- $400 US on Ebay motors, depends on what brand you choose.

Bigger core, alloy construction, just the issue of A/T heat exchanger to deal with.

Either will fit, but the Z33 cap will not permit you to use the stock air funnel (it is on the passenger side)

Make sure you get a G35 one and take note of the side the cap is on.... oh, and with a larger radiator be prepared to cut a bit of the "glass composite" frame

  PetroDola said:
lol i was waiting for that.

you evidently havent seen me drive.

i wasnt going to buy an s14 because it looked cool..and then blow its sr20 up the first week :blink:

im hoping the rb25 lasts at least 2 weeks. lol

i wouldve got kudos if i pasted this in the skyline thread. lol

Nothing gay about driving with the arse out, eh Kier? :P

  Jetwreck said:
just need to cut some plastic bits for the extra width.....the base was just a matter of remounting.....you can use anything....I just used some thick plastic Zipties......looks factory.....I'll take some photo's tonight as it's still mounted to the front frame.

:unsure: Duuuuuuuude......

lol thanks for the info guys!

ill be getting a V35 radiator and having a shop install the factory transmission loop, or get them to install one so i can still drive the car short distances...........

  iamhe77 said:
:unsure: Duuuuuuuude......

what?......lot better that the factory setup....not really possible to weld up some new bottom mounts onto the plastic.....there is slots that the Zipties slot through so it all looks pretty much factory......it's all held in by the pipes and top clip's as well....would not have done it if it looked like shit or didn't work!

btw.......YEH!.....nice radiator Scott! :blink:

Edited by Jetwreck
  iamhe77 said:
Seemingly... I still would like to know how much you cut out to get that beast of a radiator in there

Just a slight shave off the top fiberglass...

Mine is still stinking of coolant, dont buy silicone pipes guys if you hate the smell...

  zei20l said:
an S14 would be better, S15 better still!!

R33 is the poor man's nissan :unsure:

yeap.. thats why it only cost $5600 :devil:

its JDM's version of a commodore, my JDM bogadore is even black ..how perfect!

nah i reckon r33's look aight :blink:

and s15's are for girls blouses

:P

Edited by PetroDola
  scotty nm35 said:
Just a slight shave off the top fiberglass...

Mine is still stinking of coolant, dont buy silicone pipes guys if you hate the smell...

lol... I have a set at home waiting to go on. Somewhat thicker and stiffer wall that the one's you bought though :unsure:

Edited by iamhe77
  PetroDola said:
yeap.. thats why it only cost $5600 :P

its JDM's version of a commodore, my JDM bogadore is even black ..how perfect!

nah i reckon r33's look aight :unsure:

and s15's are for girls blouses

:blink:

R33 = Bogan mobile for import owners

S15 = Great chassis, very good drivetrain, lovely looks

  iamhe77 said:
R33 = Bogan mobile for import owners

S15 = Great chassis, very good drivetrain, lovely looks

pfft s15 drivetrain is good for a sr20..but wont do burnouts everyday hey, again girls blouse theory :unsure:

its a 4 cylinder.. yeah lets make it do an 9 second quarter mile once or twice before it required a rebuild.. who wants that crap.

r33 however has the strongest box nissan ever made :blink:

besides.. for $5600 not exactly s15 budget no :P

(just the mods are worth what im paying for the car)

if i had the money for a s15.. id just buy a gtr :devil:

Edited by PetroDola
  PetroDola said:
pfft s15 drivetrain is good for a sr20..but wont do burnouts everyday hey, again girls blouse theory :unsure:

wanna bet?? i owned two. they got hammered every day, every time i drove them :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...