Oil In Head = Big End Bearing

[fatz]

yup one litre over = happyniess

owned about 15 rb26 powered cars and every one has been thrashed at the race track

also helps not to rev em like a swede 7.5 k is enough

[mr 32]

you will prob look at a trust weld on if thats your budget, as you will need diff removal and refit and welding aswell

[jangles]

alright ill ask the question that no one has actually answered yet then. what sort of bigger sumps do you recommend? and where you have got them from? also what sort of price?

by putting that bigger sump on you arent fixing the problem, which is what you stated in your first post, youre just bandaiding it, which is the same as 1l overfill on track days..

we were trying to help you out with the other little points in your original post you made...

few other sumps,

http://www.performancemetalcraft.com.au/

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category55_1.htm

[ripps]

well how do i fix it then. not a fan of over fillin the standard sump because that is something ya dont do with engines from what i have always been taught.

[mr 32]

well how do i fix it then. not a fan of over fillin the standard sump because that is something ya dont do with engines from what i have always been taught.

see below it is taken from the oil control thread posted earlier in this thread

i assume you didnt open the link as this is an extract fromt he first post in the thread

Circuit, drag or drift RB’s with excess oil in the cylinder head, not enough oil in the sump, oil in the catch can, wet sump, oil surge, lack of oil, big end bearing failure etc

On the circuit race cars we take a 5 step approach in controlling the amount of oil that is trapped in the cylinder head and/or blown into the catch can;

1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard)

2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc.

3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump

4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block

5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil

It seems to me that many guys do #2, and some maybe #1. If you haven’t done #3, #4 or #5, then please remember that they are cylinder head off jobs. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block is pretty much self explanatory. As is machining (die grinder) around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil to the return bgalleries. The external oil return fits to the rear of the cylinder head at the Y, there is a welsh plug there that you can remove and replace with a fitting. Then braided line to another fitting in the top of the LHS sump wing if you have one. If you don't, then you should for circuit and drift work.

in addition to a larger sump

[Beer Baron]

well within your budget I would be doing:

enlarge oil returns in block and head

fit oil feed restrictor (based on flow of pump but between 1.1mm and 1.5mm depending on flow of pump, max rpm and type of use)

fit trust sump extension (best sump that still fits your budget, the others are good too but as you can see $1600 just for the sump extension) trust sump is a good design and holds plenty oil

do the rear head oil drain if you want. opinions are mixed on it's value but having one shouldn't hurt anything but they can make refitting the engine a bit of a pain depending on the exact design you may need to 'massage' the firewall to make it fit without touching.

that's the key bits.

[ripps]

what do ya think of this one it seems cheap and the same as all the others out there

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=6939

[jangles]

that would be for the extension only, then you have to weld it on etc. etc. hence the price

if you were to click options it would of gave you a price of around $1500

Edited November 2, 2010 by jangles

[ripps]

ahh righto i see that now thanks

[R31Nismoid]

well how do i fix it then. not a fan of over fillin the standard sump because that is something ya dont do with engines from what i have always been taught.

So isn't that why you started the thread?

To be educated on it?

I think 6 people now have told you what needs to be done - and also the fact that putting a larger sump on wont necessarily fix the issue...

I certainly haven't been taught that you need external oil drainage from a motor, so whoever told you that is wrong.

[saliya]

what do ya think of this one it seems cheap and the same as all the others out there

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=6939

Same hi-octane extension, but DIY.

You _so_ don't want to weld an aluminium sump if you don't have experience.

If not because of the welds; then just because the driveshafts /diff run through the sump.

Get it a couple of mm wrong and it all goes to hell; repeatedly.

IMHO, even if you do have experience Leon's TIGging will blow most people out of the water anyway.

Take a look at the welds.

The baffling prevents most pickup issues; the larger capacity gives you more of a thermal sink.

Cheers,

SW

[GTRsean]

I had a stock RB26 sump lying around and filled it with water a while back. I'm happy to put 6litres of oil in the sump because:

It doesn't hit the crank,

Nearly level with the top of the sump, so oil is always at the pickup during hard acceleration etc,

It works for me.

If I had $10k I would dry sump too, but I don't.

Good luck with your ground scraping sump extension