Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought this R33 in August last year and it was already in immaculate condition inside and outside with no body kit or any of that rubbish, and already had a 35R Tial 44mm gate, Plazmaman inlet, Power FC, AVCR, Nismo 740cc injectors, Bosch 040 pump, and a few other goodies and had previously made 350hp on 16psi. It looked like this when I got it.

n78958807414333885878.jpg

I took it to the drags a few times but due to the clutch I couldn't get it to launch properly, so my best time was a 12.9 @ 115mph, then I put an Xtreme button in it and straight away ran a 12.6, still with room for improvement in the 60ft time.

Anyway about 6 months ago a knock developed in the front of the motor which turned out to be the harmonic balancer hitting against the lower timing cover. Both keyways were flogged out and there appears to be a bash mark on the front of the balancer which looks like it's been hit with a hammer at some stage. Very nice.

img1581y.jpg

img1582ad.jpg

img1583x.jpg

img1586w.jpg

I figured it was pointless going through the whole process of pulling the motor out just to put the same stock motor back in, so I got on the phone to RIPS and had them build me a hot motor RB25/30 combo.

I'm planning on maxing out the 35R in an attempt to get around 550hp at the treads but I'm not sure if it'll make it past 500hp, and if/when it expires I'll put a Borg Warner S372 on with 2-step.

Aside from the motor I added an 044 and surge tank, and decided to give Cryo a shot, see if it works or not. If it doesn't it's not big deal, it was cheap as. I have almost everything I need to get the motor in, just need to order a clutch. I figure an NPC twin plate will handle anything I can throw at it.

68352441242751125692956.jpg

This is just a photo of the car before it came off the road. The D1Rs are for sale and are in perfect condition with near new front tyres and brand new rear tyres for $1800 and are +32 and +37 so are perfect for a street car, the only time the tyres ever scrubbed was when I installed camber bars in the rear so the guards had to be rolled then.

96210639.jpg

I am planning on ditching the GTR wing at some stage also, will most likely put the standard box-type wing on if I can find one, otherwise it'll have to be a lip spoiler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342586-rips-rb2530-build-up/
Share on other sites

Hey mate mine has a few extra things like extra balancing for higher RPM, high capacity sump and wide oil drive, then a few other bits on top. The RIPS standard internal engines are still good for 600hp. In fact they run a standard internal engine on a 500 odd hp drift car in NZ. Prices are available from RIPS, unless you go for a stock internal motor they're all different prices. Rob is great to deal with, and he responds to emails almost immediately if you don't have time to speak over the phone!

I said prices are available from RIPS :) I'm not telling everything that's in it, that's a secret, so it doesn't really matter how much it cost because unless you get a stock one or one of the mildly upgraded packages they don't all cost the same!

I have no idea how much the stock rebuilds go for.

All I know is I just want to get some powerskids happening...

Edited by josh.s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...